I'm sure this has been posted sometime in the past, but I am curious, how do you clean YOUR suppressors? Specifically rimfire cans, anyone use "the dip"?
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Suppressor Cleaning How To...
- Thread starter JekyllTidesFisher3181
- Start date
Nobody??? We need a "crickets" emoji, lol
I take mine apart (Huntertown Arms) and use a sonic cleaner.
Omega and 45K have never been cleaned, I don't think it's even possible.
Omega and 45K have never been cleaned, I don't think it's even possible.
I don't have a 22 can but I have a 9mm can that's user serviceable. I think the method that I use and was taught by a friend on here will work for both, is to coat the baffles/monocore with bore butter or white lithium grease. I also coat the inside of the tube. Just a super thin coating. It's not enough to make it "wet" but it definitely helps keep things in the can alot cleaner. The carbon and whatever else deposits stick to the "grease" instead of the metals. So when u disassemble it, wipe it all down with a rag and all that gunk will come off with the "grease".
Most "sealed" designs dont need to be cleaned (SilencerCo Osprey for example). The usual myth of shooting one high pressure round through cleans it isnt really true. Like shooting .223 through a .22LR suppressor. Only thing you should be concerned with cleaning is the mounting system/device. Nothing worst than a can that wont come off.. If you have something that is serviceable, (Rugged Obsidian, Dead Air Ghost, Griffin Armament Paladin) you can drop them in an ultrasonic cleaner. Or go old school with lots of elbow grease!
They need cleaning ? 
From the Gemtech Outback II Owners Manual:
Some carbon buildup has, in our testing, been shown to slightly enhance performance. However, after approximately 20,000 rounds, buildup in the suppressor does decrease performance
As a general rule (and contrary to popular opinion), sealed suppressors have a longer life if no attempt is made at cleaning. There are no perfect solvents for the carbon deposited on the internal parts by the burning of the powder, and a number of the commonly used solvents can damage the suppressor or will create sludge that can decrease the lifespan. The suppressor is all aluminum, and many normal gun cleaning solvents will damage aluminum. These include Hoppe’s, Sweets, GI Bore Cleaner, and all water-based agents (such as SLIP-2000, MP-7, Simple Green, etc.). Water should never be used in a sealed suppressor.
I wipe down the outside and clean the threads then put a dot of high temperature grease on the threads just to make it easy to attach. I will worry about cleaning the inside when it no longer suppresses :-)
From the Gemtech Outback II Owners Manual:
Some carbon buildup has, in our testing, been shown to slightly enhance performance. However, after approximately 20,000 rounds, buildup in the suppressor does decrease performance
As a general rule (and contrary to popular opinion), sealed suppressors have a longer life if no attempt is made at cleaning. There are no perfect solvents for the carbon deposited on the internal parts by the burning of the powder, and a number of the commonly used solvents can damage the suppressor or will create sludge that can decrease the lifespan. The suppressor is all aluminum, and many normal gun cleaning solvents will damage aluminum. These include Hoppe’s, Sweets, GI Bore Cleaner, and all water-based agents (such as SLIP-2000, MP-7, Simple Green, etc.). Water should never be used in a sealed suppressor.
I wipe down the outside and clean the threads then put a dot of high temperature grease on the threads just to make it easy to attach. I will worry about cleaning the inside when it no longer suppresses :-)
I, specifically, have a AAC Element II. Stainless baffles and a titanium tube. I am most curious if any of you use "the dip" to clean your components. Nasty stuff from what I read, but extremely effective.
Manufacturer indicates to clean the titanium and stainless steel with a plastic brush or a scotch brite pad and solvent.
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The dip followed by stainless pin tumble
I have a .22 can that had a lot of carbon buildup. I took it apart and ran it through several ultrasonic cleanings with solvent and it barely scratched the surface - the carbon would not come off. Bought some Carbon Killer from Slip 2000 and soaked baffles overnight. Carbon came off very easily with a bronze brush.
