The Lee bulge buster kit will work on any straight walled auto round. 380, 40, 45 acp, 10mm, etc. I run all my 40 s&w and 10mm through it just to knock of the bulge before I reload. You must have the Lee factory crimp die for the given caliber which works in conjunction with the Bulge Buster Kit. Do not use it on a tapered case, I.E. 9mm. It will not go through and may jam up or damage your die.
A typical resizing die does not size all the way to the base. Practically impossible unless you line every case up perfectly before resizing and the die is the same size all the way down. The mouth of the dies are tapered to aid in feeding in the round for resizing therefore they do not completely resize the brass. However, since the base typically doesn't need resizing since it is thicker there, it not a problem in most cartridges.
The Lee factory crimp die doesn't size anymore than the resizing die. It is tapered at the base also. It does however make sure the external dimensions of the load round are within spec from the bullet to near the base where it stops resizing. When you seat a bullet in the case, sometimes, if the bullet is a bit oversized (i.e. cast boolits) it may be too fat to chamber correctly. The Lee factory crimp die swages down end of the boolit/case to make sure it fits.
I purchased a case gauge that has a hole for several calibers in one block. Seems like it does 380, 9mm, 40, and 45. It wasn't all that expensive. Usually the only time I use it is when developing a new load. Since the nose profile on different boolits may allow one to be seated longer than other, it is needed initially to check. Once I have it developed, I rarely need to check it again as I have all of the reloading data for that round logged for future use (i.e. case, primer, powder and amount, overall length).
I must also mention that I only use the factory sizing die on jacketed bullets. Since I started casting, I use a taper crimp die in place of it. You want your cast boolits to be a bit fat so they seal off the gas in the barrel to reduce leading. But you do need to chamber check them in your barrel to make sure they are not too long.
Rosewood
A typical resizing die does not size all the way to the base. Practically impossible unless you line every case up perfectly before resizing and the die is the same size all the way down. The mouth of the dies are tapered to aid in feeding in the round for resizing therefore they do not completely resize the brass. However, since the base typically doesn't need resizing since it is thicker there, it not a problem in most cartridges.
The Lee factory crimp die doesn't size anymore than the resizing die. It is tapered at the base also. It does however make sure the external dimensions of the load round are within spec from the bullet to near the base where it stops resizing. When you seat a bullet in the case, sometimes, if the bullet is a bit oversized (i.e. cast boolits) it may be too fat to chamber correctly. The Lee factory crimp die swages down end of the boolit/case to make sure it fits.
I purchased a case gauge that has a hole for several calibers in one block. Seems like it does 380, 9mm, 40, and 45. It wasn't all that expensive. Usually the only time I use it is when developing a new load. Since the nose profile on different boolits may allow one to be seated longer than other, it is needed initially to check. Once I have it developed, I rarely need to check it again as I have all of the reloading data for that round logged for future use (i.e. case, primer, powder and amount, overall length).
I must also mention that I only use the factory sizing die on jacketed bullets. Since I started casting, I use a taper crimp die in place of it. You want your cast boolits to be a bit fat so they seal off the gas in the barrel to reduce leading. But you do need to chamber check them in your barrel to make sure they are not too long.
Rosewood
