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Truck is going crazy

Check all your ground wires coming off your motor and from the elect panel to the frame and firewall.
Miss fire should be in your electronics not usually anything to do with fuel, unless it is running rich and fouling plugs.
Thinking about it I might would change plugs again in case they are fouled.
 
Check all your ground wires coming off your motor and from the elect panel to the frame and firewall.
Miss fire should be in your electronics not usually anything to do with fuel, unless it is running rich and fouling plugs.
Thinking about it I might would change plugs again in case they are fouled.
Not entirely true. This excerpt is straight off the interwebs and have seen it myself.

Check Engine Light On, P0300 Random Misfire Code

A random misfire means your engine is misfiring, but that the problem is not isolated to one or two cylinders. It is jumping around in a random way from one cylinder to another. A random misfire code usually means the air/fuel mixture is running lean. But the cause might be anything from a hard-to-find vacuum leak to dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, a weak ignition coil, bad plug wires, or compression problems. Even a dirty MAF sensor can cause a lean code and/or misfire to occur. The engine may be stalling because it isn’t getting enough throttle opening. The cause is often a problem in the idle air control system. The first thing to check is the intake vacuum with a vacuum gauge. On most vehicles a normal reading is 17 to 21 inches Hg. If the needle is lower, is jumping up and down or steadily dropping, you have a vacuum problem. Look for possible vacuum leaks by checking vacuum hose connections, the throttle body and manifold, and PVC valve and plumbing. An EGR valve that is leaking can also act like a vacuum leak and cause a random misfire. The next thing you should check is the fuel pressure with a gauge. If it is not within specifications (refer to a service manual for specifics because fuel pressure is critical for proper engine performance), the problem may be a weak fuel pump, low voltage to the pump (check the relay and wiring), or obstructions in the fuel line (like a plugged filter). A bad fuel pressure relay can also leak pressure and prevent an otherwise good fuel pump from delivering full pressure to the injectors. Dirty injectors can also restrict fuel delivery and cause a lean fuel condition. Many regular grades of gasoline do not contain adequate levels of detergent to keep the injectors clean. Frequent short trip driving accelerates the buildup of injector deposits. Cleaning the injectors with a good quality fuel tank additive (or having them professionally cleaned) can solve this problem. Look at short term fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trim (LTFT) with your AutoTap Express DIY. If the numbers are high, it tells you the engine is running lean.
 
So started with a random misfire went to cyl 4 misfire back to random misfire to lean in both banks to cyl 1 misfire to random misfire again and lean in both banks or misfire lean in bank 1..... Have replace distributor, fuel pump, cap and rotor, MAF, vacuum lines,injectors(whole spider), did a compression test a few other little things.... What could be wrong? 2001 chevy s10 4.3L.... Any help would be great help

Found your problem. That is 2 in a week, hmmm
 
Not entirely true. This excerpt is straight off the interwebs and have seen it myself.

Check Engine Light On, P0300 Random Misfire Code

A random misfire means your engine is misfiring, but that the problem is not isolated to one or two cylinders. It is jumping around in a random way from one cylinder to another. A random misfire code usually means the air/fuel mixture is running lean. But the cause might be anything from a hard-to-find vacuum leak to dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, a weak ignition coil, bad plug wires, or compression problems. Even a dirty MAF sensor can cause a lean code and/or misfire to occur. The engine may be stalling because it isn’t getting enough throttle opening. The cause is often a problem in the idle air control system. The first thing to check is the intake vacuum with a vacuum gauge. On most vehicles a normal reading is 17 to 21 inches Hg. If the needle is lower, is jumping up and down or steadily dropping, you have a vacuum problem. Look for possible vacuum leaks by checking vacuum hose connections, the throttle body and manifold, and PVC valve and plumbing. An EGR valve that is leaking can also act like a vacuum leak and cause a random misfire. The next thing you should check is the fuel pressure with a gauge. If it is not within specifications (refer to a service manual for specifics because fuel pressure is critical for proper engine performance), the problem may be a weak fuel pump, low voltage to the pump (check the relay and wiring), or obstructions in the fuel line (like a plugged filter). A bad fuel pressure relay can also leak pressure and prevent an otherwise good fuel pump from delivering full pressure to the injectors. Dirty injectors can also restrict fuel delivery and cause a lean fuel condition. Many regular grades of gasoline do not contain adequate levels of detergent to keep the injectors clean. Frequent short trip driving accelerates the buildup of injector deposits. Cleaning the injectors with a good quality fuel tank additive (or having them professionally cleaned) can solve this problem. Look at short term fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trim (LTFT) with your AutoTap Express DIY. If the numbers are high, it tells you the engine is running lean.

If all he had was the one code I would agree, with all the codes he's showing I think it will be electrical in nature. Of course without being able to put my hands on it I cannot really know. If there is not problems where I suggested he look, he needs to have the ECU checked. When they go bad sometimes they throw a bunch of crazy codes before quitting completely.
Then again he may have some crappy gas...
 
If all he had was the one code I would agree, with all the codes he's showing I think it will be electrical in nature. Of course without being able to put my hands on it I cannot really know. If there is not problems where I suggested he look, he needs to have the ECU checked. When they go bad sometimes they throw a bunch of crazy codes before quitting completely.
Then again he may have some crappy gas...

I was going off the first post where he stated lean on bank 1 and 2 and random misfire codes. I must have missed him stating different codes. The only reason I pointed to fuel system was my previous experience with the exact same set of codes.
 
I was going off the first post where he stated lean on bank 1 and 2 and random misfire codes. I must have missed him stating different codes. The only reason I pointed to fuel system was my previous experience with the exact same set of codes.


Anything is possible... especially in long distance diagnostics. LOL
 
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