Thats real funny coming from a guy with a penetrating name. Ram.... Rodd... doc? are you a professional rod rammer? Dr. Rod Rammer
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Want to help reload in exchange for some reloading knowledge.
- Thread starter RimfireRaiders
- Start date
Thats real funny coming from a guy with a penetrating name. Ram.... Rodd... doc? are you a professional rod rammer? Dr. Rod Rammer
Thanks I'll check it out.
you been pretty rough on that monitor today
Har har! You do have a sense of humor. And oddly enough when I worked as a medic in Korea and later in performing my PA duties, I did indeed have to professionally "rod" a few soldiers due to their indiscretions over the weekend. But the name RamRoddoc actually came from being stationed in Germany, 1st Infantry Division while a member and the Battalion Medical Officer "RamRoddoc" for 2-2 Infantry "Ramrods". Hence the name after the rod used in black powder rifles from the early days of American Infantry.
Now on to reloading pearls:
I think Chuck dog rightly suggest for a newbie starting out with a single stage press. Your initial cost will be less and if and when you decide to move on to a progressive press you can still use it and the supporting accessories. I still do all my rifle reloading with a single stage O frame press. I shoot a lot of pistol ammo and a progressive just is a much more efficient but more complicated method of reloading. You can get plenty of recommendations of types of presses, powder measures, components etc. here at the ODT.
The easiest cartridge type to reload is straight walled pistol type. Necked brass typically takes an extra step to lube the brass prior to sizing in order to prevent stuck cartridges. The whole process is fairly simple and if you can change your own spark plugs then you should be able to reload you own ammo.
To get started you will need a decent bench to mount your press and if able then secure it to the wall. If you have kids, try to keep this an off limits (lock and key) area. A good press then can be mounted and secured. A good lighting source is necessary and area should be away from flame or fire.
You will need a basic reloading manual that does just that. Most detailed reloading data can be found from the powder manufacturer. Here is a good basic manual that I still use today. This is a very good beginner’s book and will help you get started. http://www.amazon.com/Metallic-Cartridge-Reloading-M-McPherson/dp/0873491807?tag=dogpile-20
First step is case preparation:
New brass of same manufacture can be used typically as is. I do check the lengths of a few to spot check it for QC and if all is Gucci then use it as is. Some will trim the necks so all the brass is as close to uniform as possible and this is commonly done on previously fired brass that has stretched from repeated firings. If you have exceeded overall length more than once beware that as the neck length grows, the brass thins and may require repeated trimmings that will eventually lead to brass failure. This is more of a problem with rifle brass and the hotter the round the more it becomes an issue (22-250, 220 Swift etc.). Now the whole reason many reload is to save a bit of coin that can allow more shooting. So, used brass is a great way to save money. For rifle I keep head stamps and lot numbers the same as variants will have thinner or thicker cases that can and has led to excessive chamber pressures for some reloaders. Military brass is notably thicker and same loads in this brass can raise pressures that are ok for other makes of brass. For my pistols more often than not, I mix it up as the pressures are a lot less and it doesn't seem to be an issue.
The old fired brass should be cleaned and a vibratory cleaner has worked best for me. I use crushed walnut hull media and a liquid cleaner added to the media. Don't overload your vibratory cleaner or it will die a slow death. I measure out the number of brass in an old coffee can to keep within the recommended "round count" that the maker recommends as max. After clean, I inspect the brass for cracks, splits, bulges or other defect that mandates discarding. I do pick up range brass and much of it is once fired but I do occasionally find some that a reloader has pretty much used it up. Any further reloading would incur a risk to firearm and self. Range brass never gets maximum loads and I save factory data recommended hot loads for new or maybe my own once fired factory brass.
Once you have your brass ready-new is ready for priming. Fired brass needs to decapped, resized and primed. I have a hand primer that is very easy to use and you can prime brass while watching T.V. Most presses today have a priming feature and you may not need a hand primer press. If it has this feature make sure it's functional or you purchase the accessories needed to make it so if it's what you will use to prime your cases.
You will need a set of dies and these come in different flavors. A whole thread could be devoted to this alone. But a key thing is that carbide dies typically rule but I have had good results with the Lee collet dies too. Get a good understanding of what each die does and most have instructions on basic setup included.
You will need a powder measure that meters the type of powder you plan to use. Some work great with larger size powders (actual size of each particle of powder) but fail with small ball type powders. When you figure out what caliber and what type of powder you will attempt to use then just post a thread on recommendations for a measure or appropriate powder. Some folks just use a powder scoop-measure and it works well for them. Powder measures come with some dies or you can buy or make your own. I have used old cartridges for a field expedient measure. Although I prefer throwing a handle on a decent measure to charge a case. Most are very accurate to a 1/10th of a grain.
You must have an accurate powder scales. Try to get one that is magnetically dampened so it stabilizes quickly. You can weigh every charge and I do this on some rifle loads. But mostly it is just a safety check to make sure my measure is metering correctly or when making powder adjustments.
After getting the powder sorted out and in the case then seat your bullet. Some dies come with different screw in seaters for round nose or flat nose bullets. You will need to measure the overall cartridge length (OAL) to insure at minimum it meets the standard guidelines. However some rounds and even some guns have an optimal OAL that they prefer for optimal function. For instance .45 ACP has an optimal understood OAL 1.26" for 230 grain FMJ. I have an old caliper/dial type that I only use when the battery goes out of my General English/metric LCD caliper measure. If you have a particular brand of ammo that works really well with your gun then copy the OAL from it and it may work as well as bullet weight.
Now the final step the crimp. Two common basic types are the taper (mostly semi-auto pistol) and rolled crimp (seen commonly in heavy recoiling magnum revolvers and used in typically cannlure bullets). I always double check the OAL after crimping initially until I'm satisfied it is good to go. Don't over crimp as it increases pressure and distorts the bullet body.
Other things that really you should get for reloading:
Reloading blocks
Bullet puller (kinetic types are cheap and used for multiple round types)
Trimmer for rifle brass and hand chamfering tool
Primer pocket swager if you have a lot of once fired military brass-the primer is crimped in my old brass.
Strainer for cleaning media to separate brass (Mine once was my wife's kitchen colander).
Storage bins for fired caliber segregated-I use coffee cans, cardboard boxes and have some nice cheap plastic storage bins I picked up.
For live rounds-some nice plastic cases are nice to have but for bulk I use old army ammo cans.
Spray on case lube for necked cartridges-the case blocks make this too easy, compared to old pad and roll lube.
Now not in keeping with the bottom line up front, SAFETY! Never compromise safety! Most blown up guns are the direct result of reloading errors.
Here are the more common causes of reloading Ka-Booms:
Double charge of powder
Wrong powder for data used
Wrong weight bullet for data
Compressing the non-compressible powder charge (too deeply seated bullet)
Excessively worn brass
Other things that can contribute:
High riding primers-primer not fully seated
Excessive crimping
There are others and a basic reloading manual should make you aware of them.
Don't reload 1K of ammo only to find it doesn't work well. Load 20-50 or so and fire it up checking for reliability, signs of excessive pressure/power and any other factors you consider important. Reloading can be a lot of fun but if you want to save money, don't do it. It just often leads to buying more stuff and shooting a heck of a lot more.
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A+ RRD, the only addition I'd make is staying focused. This ain't a time for multi-tasking.
Agreed! Oh what's that, something shiney!
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I don't really have a specific questions. I know I could read books and watch videos and piece it all together.
I learn more and learn faster by doing. So I figured I could help somone and learn at the same time.
Har har! You do have a sense of humor. And oddly enough when I worked as a medic in Korea and later in performing my PA duties, I did indeed have to professionally "rod" a few soldiers due to their indiscretions over the weekend. But the name RamRoddoc actually came from being stationed in Germany, 1st Infantry Division while a member and the Battalion Medical Officer "RamRoddoc" for 2-2 Infantry "Ramrods". Hence the name after the rod used in black powder rifles from the early days of American Infantry.
Now on to reloading pearls:
I think Chuck dog rightly suggest for a newbie starting out with a single stage press. Your initial cost will be less and if and when you decide to move on to a progressive press you can still use it and the supporting accessories. I still do all my rifle reloading with a single stage O frame press. I shoot a lot of pistol ammo and a progressive just is a much more efficient but more complicated method of reloading. You can get plenty of recommendations of types of presses, powder measures, components etc. here at the ODT.
The easiest cartridge type to reload is straight walled pistol type. Necked brass typically takes an extra step to lube the brass prior to sizing in order to prevent stuck cartridges. The whole process is fairly simple and if you can change your own spark plugs then you should be able to reload you own ammo.
To get started you will need a decent bench to mount your press and if able then secure it to the wall. If you have kids, try to keep this an off limits (lock and key) area. A good press then can be mounted and secured. A good lighting source is necessary and area should be away from flame or fire.
You will need a basic reloading manual that does just that. Most detailed reloading data can be found from the powder manufacturer. Here is a good basic manual that I still use today. This is a very good beginner’s book and will help you get started. http://www.amazon.com/Metallic-Cartridge-Reloading-M-McPherson/dp/0873491807?tag=dogpile-20
First step is case preparation:
New brass of same manufacture can be used typically as is. I do check the lengths of a few to spot check it for QC and if all is Gucci then use it as is. Some will trim the necks so all the brass is as close to uniform as possible and this is commonly done on previously fired brass that has stretched from repeated firings. If you have exceeded overall length more than once beware that as the neck length grows, the brass thins and may require repeated trimmings that will eventually lead to brass failure. This is more of a problem with rifle brass and the hotter the round the more it becomes an issue (22-250, 220 Swift etc.). Now the whole reason many reload is to save a bit of coin that can allow more shooting. So, used brass is a great way to save money. For rifle I keep head stamps and lot numbers the same as variants will have thinner or thicker cases that can and has led to excessive chamber pressures for some reloaders. Military brass is notably thicker and same loads in this brass can raise pressures that are ok for other makes of brass. For my pistols more often than not, I mix it up as the pressures are a lot less and it doesn't seem to be an issue.
The old fired brass should be cleaned and a vibratory cleaner has worked best for me. I use crushed walnut hull media and a liquid cleaner added to the media. Don't overload your vibratory cleaner or it will die a slow death. I measure out the number of brass in an old coffee can to keep within the recommended "round count" that the maker recommends as max. After clean, I inspect the brass for cracks, splits, bulges or other defect that mandates discarding. I do pick up range brass and much of it is once fired but I do occasionally find some that a reloader has pretty much used it up. Any further reloading would incur a risk to firearm and self. Range brass never gets maximum loads and I save factory data recommended hot loads for new or maybe my own once fired factory brass.
Once you have your brass ready-new is ready for priming. Fired brass needs to decapped, resized and primed. I have a hand primer that is very easy to use and you can prime brass while watching T.V. Most presses today have a priming feature and you may not need a hand primer press. If it has this feature make sure it's functional or you purchase the accessories needed to make it so if it's what you will use to prime your cases.
You will need a set of dies and these come in different flavors. A whole thread could be devoted to this alone. But a key thing is that carbide dies typically rule but I have had good results with the Lee collet dies too. Get a good understanding of what each die does and most have instructions on basic setup included.
You will need a powder measure that meters the type of powder you plan to use. Some work great with larger size powders (actual size of each particle of powder) but fail with small ball type powders. When you figure out what caliber and what type of powder you will attempt to use then just post a thread on recommendations for a measure or appropriate powder. Some folks just use a powder scoop-measure and it works well for them. Powder measures come with some dies or you can buy or make your own. I have used old cartridges for a field expedient measure. Although I prefer throwing a handle on a decent measure to charge a case. Most are very accurate to a 1/10th of a grain.
You must have an accurate powder scales. Try to get one that is magnetically dampened so it stabilizes quickly. You can weigh every charge and I do this on some rifle loads. But mostly it is just a safety check to make sure my measure is metering correctly or when making powder adjustments.
After getting the powder sorted out and in the case then seat your bullet. Some dies come with different screw in seaters for round nose or flat nose bullets. You will need to measure the overall cartridge length (OAL) to insure at minimum it meets the standard guidelines. However some rounds and even some guns have an optimal OAL that they prefer for optimal function. For instance .45 ACP has an optimal understood OAL 1.26" for 230 grain FMJ. I have an old caliper/dial type that I only use when the battery goes out of my General English/metric LCD caliper measure. If you have a particular brand of ammo that works really well with your gun then copy the OAL from it and it may work as well as bullet weight.
Now the final step the crimp. Two common basic types are the taper (mostly semi-auto pistol) and rolled crimp (seen commonly in heavy recoiling magnum revolvers and used in typically cannlure bullets). I always double check the OAL after crimping initially until I'm satisfied it is good to go. Don't over crimp as it increases pressure and distorts the bullet body.
Other things that really you should get for reloading:
Reloading blocks
Bullet puller (kinetic types are cheap and used for multiple round types)
Trimmer for rifle brass and hand chamfering tool
Primer pocket swager if you have a lot of once fired military brass-the primer is crimped in my old brass.
Strainer for cleaning media to separate brass (Mine once was my wife's kitchen colander).
Storage bins for fired caliber segregated-I use coffee cans, cardboard boxes and have some nice cheap plastic storage bins I picked up.
For live rounds-some nice plastic cases are nice to have but for bulk I use old army ammo cans.
Spray on case lube for necked cartridges-the case blocks make this too easy, compared to old pad and roll lube.
Now not in keeping with the bottom line up front, SAFETY! Never compromise safety! Most blown up guns are the direct result of reloading errors.
Here are the more common causes of reloading Ka-Booms:
Double charge of powder
Wrong powder for data used
Wrong weight bullet for data
Compressing the non-compressible powder charge (too deeply seated bullet)
Excessively worn brass
Other things that can contribute:
High riding primers-primer not fully seated
Excessive crimping
There are others and a basic reloading manual should make you aware of them.
Don't reload 1K of ammo only to find it doesn't work well. Load 20-50 or so and fire it up checking for reliability, signs of excessive pressure/power and any other factors you consider important. Reloading can be a lot of fun but if you want to save money, don't do it. It just often leads to buying more stuff and shooting a heck of a lot more.
I appreciate you taking the time to write all that. Now see, that's what I was looking for. It was like I was standing in a shop listening to an experienced loader while we were loading.
Thanks RamRoddoc.
Agreed x10 ^^^^ Chuckdog,
And very well written RamRoddoc!
RimfireRaiders,
I understand where your coming from on the learning from the wisdom and experience of others, the downside is you may also pick up some bad habbits. Everybody has their own way of doing things. So just take it slow and ask questions, we all learned by trial and error. Sometimes no matter what you read or watch it just don't come together like it should. Develope your own sequience or steps for prep and loading, again if you have any questions ask. Just don't rush yourself, that's usually when you'll make the mistakes.
There is a wealth of knowledge right here on the ODT, free for the asking. Although you may take some ribbing etc. it's all in fun. So ask away someone will come along and chime in eventually. I hope you enjoy re-loading as much as I do.
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HERE'S A NICE LINK TO A HIGHLY RESPECTED FORUM DEDICATED TO RELOADING:
http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=33
BTW: Reloading with other people can sometimes be like a teenager driving with other teenagers in the car ...
If you are not really, really careful, you can get distracted and .... then
the incidence of accidents goes up dramatically! Just my 2 cents worth on safety!
http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=33
BTW: Reloading with other people can sometimes be like a teenager driving with other teenagers in the car ...
If you are not really, really careful, you can get distracted and .... then
the incidence of accidents goes up dramatically! Just my 2 cents worth on safety!
