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Wanting To Get Into Reloading

Yes but you would still need to start low and work your way up to find what works in your weapon. Most published data is for a certain barrel length and if you have a different length barrel you might not need as much powder as the load data calls for. The name of the game is to push the projectile the entire length of the barrel, in other words there is a point of diminishing return. On the other hand if you don't add enough powder you will be leaving some velocity behind due to friction. This can get complicated very quick. But the load data in the book should be fairly close.

Dang, I've got a lot to learn, but I've got time I guess. I have to get a room cleared out for all of this stuff anyway. I think I'll take BHJ's advice and start with the Lee book. It looks like it covers pretty much everything and since I'm buying Lee equipment anyway, I'll start there. Thanks for all of the advice everyone, I really appreciate it!
 
One other great resource for a particular caliber is published by Load Books USA- www.midwayusa.com has them. Caliber specific book that is literally copies of all the various manufacturer's data for that caliber. It doesn't have any info on how to set up equipment and the steps for reloading, but for about $7 it's a great reference for one caliber.

I'd watch craig's list and ebay- you can find great deals on a gently used reloading setup... occasionally they are well used- so watch out for that. I got a good condition Dillon 550 with a tumbler, scale, dies, and a bunch of brass for under three hundred bucks this past spring.
 
One other great resource for a particular caliber is published by Load Books USA- www.midwayusa.com has them. Caliber specific book that is literally copies of all the various manufacturer's data for that caliber. It doesn't have any info on how to set up equipment and the steps for reloading, but for about $7 it's a great reference for one caliber.

I'd watch craig's list and ebay- you can find great deals on a gently used reloading setup... occasionally they are well used- so watch out for that. I got a good condition Dillon 550 with a tumbler, scale, dies, and a bunch of brass for under three hundred bucks this past spring.

Thanks Dial, your profile says that you're in the mid GA area. I am too, kinda sort of, where do you get your primers and powder from?
 
I have yet to run across a 30-06 that didn't shoot well with IMR 4350 and a 165/168gr pill.
I have three that shoot great with it.
Just thought I'd throw that out there as a good place to start.
 
I have yet to run across a 30-06 that didn't shoot well with IMR 4350 and a 165/168gr pill.
I have three that shoot great with it.
Just thought I'd throw that out there as a good place to start.

That's what the guy at the range said to use as well, but I have to find it. He said there was a place in Perry called Sportsmans Warehouse is where he was getting most of his stuff. I've been to their website and it doesn't look like they have a place in Perry. I ran across some articles that said they closed a bunch of stores. Maybe Perry was one of them and this fellow just hasn't been since then. There's a Bass Pro in Macon, but all they sell is Hodgdon. There's also an Academy sports in Macon, but I don't believe they sell reloading supplies. I wish they did though because they've got much better prices than Bass Pro on almost everything.
 
I have bought plenty of IMR at the Duluth Bass Pro location over the years but haven't needed any in a while. I may be down that way tomorrow (Macon) and if I get a chance to stop I'll let you know what I see on the shelf. with the price of gas a few dollars on a pound of powder may not necessarily be a deal breaker if you can find some locally.
 
I have bought plenty of IMR at the Duluth Bass Pro location over the years but haven't needed any in a while. I may be down that way tomorrow (Macon) and if I get a chance to stop I'll let you know what I see on the shelf.

10-4, thanks, I was just going by what they had listed on the website.
 
Well folks, I've acquired everything I need (I believe) to start reloading. I was going to wait until after the first of the year, but I just couldn't. I bought the Lee challenger kit, a Lee 30-06 deluxe die set, RCBS bullet puller and collett, hornady loading manual and hornady interlock bullets 150 grain SST boat tail. I've ordered a digital scale and a redding powder trickler separately. I'm going to Perry tomorrow to the sports center to get my primers and powder. I was just wondering if anyone has a good formula for working up a good accurate load for a Remington 700 ADL 30-06.
 
I will load at the bottom of the recommended scale. I will load 5 rounds, then increase the powder 1/2 grain then load 5 more and so on keeping track of the charges. I give the barrel time to cool and shoot at least 3 round groups moving up the groups. I will often see a pattern of large groups, smaller and smaller then the groups will begin to open up. I record that and keep notes of which charges seemed to be most accurate. I hear some call it a ladder test but it's how my Dad did it so I just have done it as well.

For bullet depth on a specific bolt gun, I will soot up (candle) a bullet seated too long and chamber it. The depth is adjusted until the lands of the rifling just kiss the bullet then keep track and record bullet make, weight and optimal seating depth.

It works for me.
 
I will load at the bottom of the recommended scale. I will load 5 rounds, then increase the powder 1/2 grain then load 5 more and so on keeping track of the charges. I give the barrel time to cool and shoot at least 3 round groups moving up the groups. I will often see a pattern of large groups, smaller and smaller then the groups will begin to open up. I record that and keep notes of which charges seemed to be most accurate. I hear some call it a ladder test but it's how my Dad did it so I just have done it as well.

For bullet depth on a specific bolt gun, I will soot up (candle) a bullet seated too long and chamber it. The depth is adjusted until the lands of the rifling just kiss the bullet then keep track and record bullet make, weight and optimal seating depth.

It works for me.

Thanks Ramrod, can you explain the seating process a little further for me please? Are you saying that you intentionally seat one too long and then put some soot on the projectile, chamber it, then see where the rifling marks start on the soot and then seat it to the depth where that mark will just be starting in the lands of the rifling?
 
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