What have I done...My '76 TA

[roundhouse]

I have used Vintage Air

I’ve heard of the place in Florida but no experience with them

If you order vintage air
Get from a retailer not from vintage
Will be cheaper

 

[harrycalahan]

Looking at the AC system, it appears to be a costly endeavor to get it operating again. Does anybody have experience with the Original Air Group out of Tampa, Florida. They make an entire replacement system that operates like a modern system. They don't rob the horsepower near as bad also. Looks like about $1100.00 to update, and it will be on 134A instead of R12. Any thoughts?

Was the car a factory air car? If you've already got the underdash factory unit, just use the existing system. Flush the condenser and evaporator. Drain and replace the oil in the compressor. Replace the expansion valve and drier and throw 134 in it. If not, Id recommend Vintage Air. I've never used them but everyone I've talked to highly recommends them. I'll be installing one of their underdash systems this spring.

 

[Tikker]

Sweet project you got there!

That garage looks like a great place to work on it, the empty space available in there is worth it's weight in gold when taking things apart and keeping things organized.

 

[shotgun 01]

Was the car a factory air car? If you've already got the underdash factory unit, just use the existing system. Flush the condenser and evaporator. Drain and replace the oil in the compressor. Replace the expansion valve and drier and throw 134 in it. If not, Id recommend Vintage Air. I've never used them but everyone I've talked to highly recommends them. I'll be installing one of their underdash systems this spring.

Yes, the car has factory air. So far, the heater core and radiator were both bad, so I am figuring that the condenser, compressor, and evaporator may be as well. If that is the case, then I will be spending money on something. Everyone tells me that the 134 isn't good on the A6 compressor. I could end up spending more on trying to make the old system work. The guy working on my car just did a Vintage Air system on a custom '61 Ford pickup. He said it went together well, but on my car, it takes away from some of the leg space on the passenger side.

 

[timbgtm]

This makes me want my 78 firebird back. I had a mildly built 400 small block with lots of spray, ultimate street sleeper. They didn't know what hit them till it was over.

 

[Heat01]

Love these old cars!!! This is my nephews my brother gave to him when he turned 16

 

[harrycalahan]

Yes, the car has factory air. So far, the heater core and radiator were both bad, so I am figuring that the condenser, compressor, and evaporator may be as well. If that is the case, then I will be spending money on something. Everyone tells me that the 134 isn't good on the A6 compressor. I could end up spending more on trying to make the old system work. The guy working on my car just did a Vintage Air system on a custom '61 Ford pickup. He said it went together well, but on my car, it takes away from some of the leg space on the passenger side.

Just because the cooling system wasnt maintained doesnt mean the Ac needs replacing. Two seperate systems. Unless you had a compressor failure, the system should be clean. Flush the evaporator and condensor (unless you want to upgrade to a larger condensor), and get your choice of compressor.

 

[shotgun 01]

True about the two different systems, but knowing how my luck goes, I would have to buy a lot of stuff to make my old system run. I don't know if the compressor failed, since the AC never worked. Also, I am seeing something about a VIR eliminator. Not sure why I need that, but apparently I would.[/QUOTE]

 

[greg vess]

After market alloy heads. Get a set of Edelbrock or close variant and do a little street port job. That's simply using bluing fluid and marking the gasket to port and grinding back about 1/2 inch. Match the ports and gasket and blend the port opening and work your way back to that half inch mark. Throw that damn quadrajunk on the shelf and put a good holley on it. I am not talking about a cheap 4150 600 CFM I am talking about a spread bore double pumper. That engine can handle up to 800 CFM. The Dodge 440 I rebuilt for my 67 Belvedere had a holley 780 on it from the factory. The engine came out of a station wagon. We had a 72 Cadillac had a big ass Holley on it from the factory. Those good holleys are in excess of 500 bucks but I would do is heads, intake and big holley double pumper. Don't be afraid to throw the fuel to that big of an engine. With good aftermarket heads, intake and a good carb you should be able to milk 500 out that big of an engine. I didn't see the factory exhaust manifolds. Headers all the way. A good set of Kooks headers with 3 inch collectors and dual 2.5 exhaust all the way back with a crossover. A motor is a big ass air pump. The more air you can move the more power you can make. I would stick with a good dual plane manifold to retain some bottom end torque. A single plane is good for the strip and hot street but I would stay away from those for your application.

 

[greg vess]

It wouldn't hurt to install a set of sub frame connectors now that is stripped. You can weld them in and the frame won't twist with that much power. They make the car handle better as well. A necessary part for any car shooting for that much power especially on a unibody car. A must, simply a must.