Yes it is with car polishing compound talk to one of the specialist at your Auto body place I did it with the side windows of my 442
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What have I done...My '76 TA
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In 1970 the compression ratios were much higher than the emissions choked heads of the mid 70's. You can put a nice little cam in for a choppy idle but I would identify what type rear differential you have now. You might get more bang for your buck with a good set of gears. You probably have a limited slip rear since it's a trans Am but look for the little metal tab underneath one of the diff cover bolts. That little tab with tell you what gear ratio you have now. The rear end is probably one of the most overlooked items on the performance list there is. More bang for you buck there than anywhere.
That little tab can also be underneath one of the bolts holding the brake line on the axle tube as well. You just have to hunt for it. It's real easy to bend and usually bent down hugging the area where it's at.
Watching you is making me long to be underneath the hood of a hot rod. My divorce was just finalized this morning and I will be moving to Virginia in the next couple of weeks and then the hunt begins. I hoping to find a nice Mopar body. What? I don't know really it will hit me when I see it. It's going to be something in the 67 to 72 era and something that's just not gaudy huge. Maybe something like that Coronet RT in the classifieds. I am going to build a 408 stroker out a 360 Magnum. Edelbrock heads, Edelbrock air gap performer manifold, roller rocker and roller camshaft and of course the complete bottom end in forged components so I can add the nitrous. I am think a 200 shot on one stage and 100-150 on the second stage. I have a long background with nitrous so it shouldn't be a problem with forged steel crank, forged steel I beam rods and forged aluminum pistons. I haven't given up on the idea of a tunnel ram instead of the air gap manifold it just depends on the funds. I have enough to get a nice car and build the engine. It really depends on how much it's going to cost to get the two subframes tied together. I am going to put the largest cam I can while still providing enough vacuum at idle so my power accessories don't fault at all. I am thinking somewhere in the 280 duration and 480 lift ( advertised numbers ).
I am going to follow you build from up there so I can keep abreast of the situation. I will let you know what I get and what else is going to happen.
I am going to follow you build from up there so I can keep abreast of the situation. I will let you know what I get and what else is going to happen.
It might take a couple of tries with the camshaft to get the right bumpstick. I will consult Comp Cams for ideas but you never know how much thought they put into it. I will give them all them all the numbers chamber size, flow rate bla, bla, bla but sometimes what looks on paper doesn't fair well on the street. If they haven't put your cam in yet remember a big block can take a bigger cam than a small block because of the stroke. So don't be afraid to go up a tiny bit. You can get that choppy idle without affecting driving characteristics. That's really what get's people's attention is that chop in the block. Nothing sounds better setting a stoplight.
Don't forget about the sub frame connectors. Just about every firebird ever made buckles at the passenger door and spyder cracks the paint there. Especially the t-top cars. With that much power your car is going to buckle like a boxer just got cracked in ribs by Mike tyson. Trust me i have owned 6 Firebirds and most of them the paint was already cracked before I could install the sub-frame connectors. Please for the your sake and the sake of your new paint job buy the sub-frame connectors for 99 bucks and have them installed. You can either bolt them in or weld them in. A combination of bolting and welding is the best. The car has to be resting on all four tires to be installed properly. Unibody cars flex horribly when subjected to loads of torque. It would be a crying shame to look over a crucial part of a unibody build when you could have corrected the flaw now while it's still in it's unfinished state.
PLEASE DO NOT TAKE THESE WORDS LIGHTLY. I keeps the paint from cracking and it also keeps the passenger glass keep a good seal. If you watch any of the shows on Saturday and they are working on a uni-body build they will cut channels in the floor and connect the front frame to the back frame. The store bought connectors will do for your HP and torque levels. I can not stress enough the importance of this modification on this particular build. A lot of guys will say it's built that way and it's suppose to flex. WRONG! Having them installed will increase handling characteristics noticeably and keep all four tires on the ground when cornering at speed. Most importantly it will keep that new paint job from spyder cracking in the door jam on the passenger side. Pull it up on the net and read about it. That small investment will be well worth the time, effort and expense. Also the car will feel more solid and you will feel more in control in the corners.
PLEASE DO NOT TAKE THESE WORDS LIGHTLY. I keeps the paint from cracking and it also keeps the passenger glass keep a good seal. If you watch any of the shows on Saturday and they are working on a uni-body build they will cut channels in the floor and connect the front frame to the back frame. The store bought connectors will do for your HP and torque levels. I can not stress enough the importance of this modification on this particular build. A lot of guys will say it's built that way and it's suppose to flex. WRONG! Having them installed will increase handling characteristics noticeably and keep all four tires on the ground when cornering at speed. Most importantly it will keep that new paint job from spyder cracking in the door jam on the passenger side. Pull it up on the net and read about it. That small investment will be well worth the time, effort and expense. Also the car will feel more solid and you will feel more in control in the corners.
you would believe the difference in feel around the corners with these and a set of Bilsteins or Koni's. It keeps you glued to the road.
You're gonna pay big money to make power with a motor no one makes off the shelf parts for. You can get in the 450hp range for a couple grand with an lsx. My suggestion would be to keep the original motor and toss a lq4/6.0 in it. They make a BOP th400 adapter for them and motor mounts. I/h/c a nice intake and carb and it'll be close to 450 there.
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