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What is "NEW" worth to you?

its split in two different categories too me. Category A. is do i care if its new: ie guns im going to shoot most anything modern, ar's aks any modern handgun. Couldnt give a **** if these were new so im not paying new prices, simple as that. Category B are older collectable firearms where new condition may acutally greatly effect the value. So i wouldnt give two ****s if a glock is New in box, but im giong to be freaking out over a never fired wwii colt


The problem here is sellers confusing "old" or "vintage" with "collectors item". Your Model 19 may be old, but it's not a "collector's item."

Also there's a reason some things are "rare" -they were POS when they were new, and they are still POS. Sort of like selling a vintage Yugo.
 
Well I like the cheaper price but if you buy it at a dealer you know it's yours and wasn't stolen at some point .If you bought a used glock for 350 at a pawn shop you know it's in your name of you bought a used glock on the odt. For 300 or 400 or 550.if stupid you never know .most people are good guys on here but if I am going trough a road block or somthing I want the gun I bought from.a dealer wouldn't it suck to catch a felony and be completely innocent . New is great used is great but food for thought

I believe you are operating under a misapprehension of fact. Gun dealers do not have access to the NCIS system, and they have no way of checking if a gun is stolen.

Pawn Shops MAY be a special case. In most jurisdictions they report new pawns/purchases to the local LEO, and the local LEO MAY run the serial number on the gun through the NCIS - but that's not a given.

Pawn shops are required to get a copy of ID. Other FFLs are not required to even get that (although they may if they choose to do so).
 
I think Location is more important than New or used.
I am not driving 2 hours to save $50.
My time and gas is worth more than that

I try not to be critical (or not too much anyway) but I have to wonder about the sellers who apparently have no sense about the value of time.

I recently offered full price, and the seller said he was too busy to take an hour to complete the transaction.

I often see guns here that the price is sort of reasonable, but I have to add in half the price of the gun for my time (not counting gas and wear and tear). It makes "bargains" of common guns not so much a bargain.

On the OP question, "new" or even "LNIB" (whatever that is) or even better ""looks unfired" (never have seen an ad for a gun "looks fired") doesn't mean much to me. I'm not a "collector" -I'm a shooter, and I value the gun in terms of it's shootability. I may pay a premium for an odd caliber or barrel length, but not much for "Newness".

I've owned one new vehicle in my life, and I decided then the 15-20% you lose when you drive off the lot was a dead loss to me, and I'd rather let someone else incur it.
 
Some are winning to pay for the "convenience" of instant gratification, no paperwork, trusted guinea pig tester... I look at a couple sites to see what the value is as far as brand new, and refuse to go above that sail price. However, the beauties I run into by accident are priceless...
 
Too many variables, but in general I want new and will pay extra for it to varying levels depending what it is. Once you add in sales tax though it starts to become an evaluation. I tend to take really good care of my 'stuff' (or try to) so not knowing the history on things (with moving parts) makes me less comfortable. Having said that, I haven't really had a bad experience with anything used.
 
Too many variables, but in general I want new and will pay extra for it to varying levels depending what it is. Once you add in sales tax though it starts to become an evaluation. I tend to take really good care of my 'stuff' (or try to) so not knowing the history on things (with moving parts) makes me less comfortable. Having said that, I haven't really had a bad experience with anything used.
Not even some crazy chick you dated when you were young?
 
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