Nice looking rifle. I think Biker13 may be right about the linseed oil. I usually use a little Murphy's oil soap in hot water with a Scotch Brite/Sponge pad to get the dirt, grime, and grease off the stock. A lot of people use Simple Green but I believe it is more aggressive. Let it dry overnight then put on a few coats of Boiled Linseed Oil. Some folks prefer Tung Oil. As for the metal, denatured alcohol.
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What the heck is this on my Remington 03A3?
- Thread starter Hayata
- Start date
Could try naptha... should clean it without removing any patina or lacquer if any was used... when it dries there may be a white chalky film... not to worry, that comes off with alcohol or will disappear when oil or oil based finish is appliedYeah, my first thought was heat gun with a judicious amount of heat applied...
Really wish my buddyPopsBwell could chime in!
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When you get ready to disassemble, here are some words of wisdom from the master.
John Beard
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sweet Home Alabama
Posts: 2,102
It's part of the correct procedure for assembling and disassembling the rifle.
The M1903 stock front fore end is tapered. The handguard is also tapered directly in front of the lower band. The handguard is correctly removed by:
(1) Remove the screw and slide the upper band fully forward behind the front sight.
(2) Loosen, but do NOT remove the lower band screw.
(3) Depress the lower band retaining spring, then slide BOTH the lower band and handguard forward until the handguard touches the front sight. At that point, the lower band will be completely loose and can be slid forward to remove the handguard.
Re-assemble in reverse order of disassembly.
Tape is a better, more reliable, and less-expensive solution than a new handguard.
J.B.
John Beard
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sweet Home Alabama
Posts: 2,102
It's part of the correct procedure for assembling and disassembling the rifle.
The M1903 stock front fore end is tapered. The handguard is also tapered directly in front of the lower band. The handguard is correctly removed by:
(1) Remove the screw and slide the upper band fully forward behind the front sight.
(2) Loosen, but do NOT remove the lower band screw.
(3) Depress the lower band retaining spring, then slide BOTH the lower band and handguard forward until the handguard touches the front sight. At that point, the lower band will be completely loose and can be slid forward to remove the handguard.
Re-assemble in reverse order of disassembly.
Tape is a better, more reliable, and less-expensive solution than a new handguard.
J.B.
When you get ready to disassemble, here are some words of wisdom from the master.
John Beard
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sweet Home Alabama
Posts: 2,102
It's part of the correct procedure for assembling and disassembling the rifle.
The M1903 stock front fore end is tapered. The handguard is also tapered directly in front of the lower band. The handguard is correctly removed by:
(1) Remove the screw and slide the upper band fully forward behind the front sight.
(2) Loosen, but do NOT remove the lower band screw.
(3) Depress the lower band retaining spring, then slide BOTH the lower band and handguard forward until the handguard touches the front sight. At that point, the lower band will be completely loose and can be slid forward to remove the handguard.
Re-assemble in reverse order of disassembly.
Tape is a better, more reliable, and less-expensive solution than a new handguard.
J.B.
Thanks for the handguard advice!
Reminds me of a Tru-oil finish like I put on my Thompson Center Hawken kit back in the 70's.
Looks a lot like the Linseed Oil finishes we had on the M-14's when I was on a carrier detachment.
We did honors and parades and such when coated heavily and left to dry it looked shiny like that.
I'd have no idea how to get it off though, but IIRC it did seem to get wet again on a hot day, so maybe warming it up (carefully) is the way to go ....
We did honors and parades and such when coated heavily and left to dry it looked shiny like that.
I'd have no idea how to get it off though, but IIRC it did seem to get wet again on a hot day, so maybe warming it up (carefully) is the way to go ....
It may have been a VFW return, used for honor guard and coated with shellac or varnish for looks. It would also explain the dark/dirty bore from the use of blanks.
You can try acetone or denatured alcohol on a small area to see which will dissolve it. Whichever one works, you can then use to slowly work the whole stock without damaging the wood underneath. Let it dry a few days and apply some RLO or BLO.
I have a similar 1903 I picked up at the CMP a couple of years ago.
You can try acetone or denatured alcohol on a small area to see which will dissolve it. Whichever one works, you can then use to slowly work the whole stock without damaging the wood underneath. Let it dry a few days and apply some RLO or BLO.
I have a similar 1903 I picked up at the CMP a couple of years ago.
I think it has been varnished or laquered -- Original stock finish is just linseed oil -
Metal just a dull perkerized -- mine is rather dark and dull -
I have a 03a3 SC with 44 RA 2 groove barrel - Untouched since it came from Redstonwe arsenal in about 1960 -- ser# 4726079 -
Hayata you are not too far from me so you always welcome to stop by and compare and see original configuration -
Metal just a dull perkerized -- mine is rather dark and dull -
I have a 03a3 SC with 44 RA 2 groove barrel - Untouched since it came from Redstonwe arsenal in about 1960 -- ser# 4726079 -
Hayata you are not too far from me so you always welcome to stop by and compare and see original configuration -
