What to use to break free a 'stuck' suppressor tube?

[spencer60]

OK, maybe I'm a DA, but it just never occurred to me that a couple hundred rounds would 'weld' the shroud on my new Gemtech MIST integrally suppressed barrel to the monocore.

I've had a Spectre II for a couple of years now, and I can always get it broken down no matter how many rounds I put through it, so it never really crossed my mind that the MIST would be any different.

I did clean the MIST after putting 100 rounds through it, and had no problems. I oiled the threads on the tube/shroud 'just to be safe', and put another 200-300 rounds through it.

Now I can't get the dang shroud off again. I chucked the action up in a vise and used a small strap wrench and even that won't break it free. Since the tube itself is the 'suppressor', I don't want to damage it, but I would like to get this open again.

I bought some SeaFoam penetrating oil yesterday and was going to give that a shot. I'm hoping that if I soak the inside of the can some of it will work down into the threads eventually.

If that doesn't work (I give it a 50/50 chance) anyone else have a suggestion on what to try?

Also, would anti-seize on the threads help prevent this from happening in the future?

 

[Cohutta68]

I've had a couple get stuck as well, but I was always able to eventually wiggle them off.

If I couldn't wiggle them off, my next attempt would probably be to shoot it enough to get it hot, and try with a good pair of gloves while it's really hot.

If I had to start spraying it, I might try a product called freeze off that I've had good experience with before, if that didn't work, I'm not sure. Maybe heat with a torch (very gently of course! ) but wouldn't really want to go that route. I'd probably call the manufacture.

When I had good experience with the freeze off product, it was usually by heating the item 1st, then spraying it with the freeze off. The idea is to get an extreme temperature change on the female side of the threads.

 

[Fear Itself]

I would use MAP gas and bring it up to temp slowly and evenly. Should break loose-may have to give it a "tap". If you use any anti seize, make sure it is for high temp. Good luck! Don't worry about heating it up, it will take the heat. Just be smart enough to not smoke it.

 

[batoncolle]

Heating may work or Kroil is what you want to soak it in if not, but you'll probably have to order it online. I don't know of any local stores that carry it. I will tell you that I just used some WD40 Rust Penetrating Spray on an old 90s 4 wheeler that looked like it had been sitting outside for the last 25+ years, and that stuff was awesome in loosening all nuts and bolts. I would however check the directions and see if there are any warnings on using it on any types of metal if you want to try it.

And yes anti-seize will work, but it's messy, and it stinks. Lock Cease is much better and cleaner, and you can buy a lifetime supply from McMaster Carr. The part number is 9438K1. Also I coat all my baffles (aluminum and steel) in Bore Butter. Makes cleanup much easier.

 

[Fear Itself]

Bore butter is the bomb! Also, use my recipe for penetration, 50% K1 and 50% Majestic rear end dope (1:1) for a surprisingly affordable rust/seize breaker. Don't ask why it works, just does!

 

[Glockspeed31]

I don't think it's your threads, it's the shroud bonded to the monocore. I would plug the muzzle and fill the barrel, monocore & shroud with a carbon cutter type cleaner (something that is safe to use on Aluminum) and let sit for a day or 2. Drain cleaner, try to twist the shroud and see if it breaks free. If not, let it sit longer and try again.
If that doesn't help and you are a member on AR15.com, try posting in their Industry section. There are 2 guys that monitor that page and respond pretty quick.

I have heard that you need to give the shroud a slight twist every 100-200 rds to keep this from happening.
Good luck.

 

[Apollo]

Had the same issue last week. Tried soaking in wd40 then kroil over night. next day about 100 rounds pretty fast through it and then wore gloves and went at it. Came apart somewhat easy with the added heat

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[spencer60]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I did try heating it up by shooting it but no luck there. I also tried some SLP 2000 Carbon Killer I had, but I wasn't able to leave it on long enough at a guess.

I'd heard about Kroil and ordered a big spray bomb of it from Amazon today but it won;t be here for a few days. I'll probably try the hot/cold trick over the weekend, since I have a can of freeze spray and a mini-torch handy.

Going to have to track down Bore Butter and Lock Cease when I get this guy opened up again though.

I also read that with these you would be OK so long as you unthreaded the shroud a bit after you finish a range outing, while it's still hot. I always have one of those non-flammable suppressor pouches in the range bag, so if that works I'll hopefully never have to deal with this again.

 

[hamburglar3]

Kroil is awesome stuff if you give it time to work in deep.

 

[batoncolle]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I did try heating it up by shooting it but no luck there. I also tried some SLP 2000 Carbon Killer I had, but I wasn't able to leave it on long enough at a guess.

I'd heard about Kroil and ordered a big spray bomb of it from Amazon today but it won;t be here for a few days. I'll probably try the hot/cold trick over the weekend, since I have a can of freeze spray and a mini-torch handy.

Going to have to track down Bore Butter and Lock Cease when I get this guy opened up again though.

I also read that with these you would be OK so long as you unthreaded the shroud a bit after you finish a range outing, while it's still hot. I always have one of those non-flammable suppressor pouches in the range bag, so if that works I'll hopefully never have to deal with this again.

Soak it in the Sea Foam while you wait on the Kroil. I'm pretty sure there are no restrictions on using it on any metals since it's used in engines. Bore Butter has been used in BP guns for years, and it works great at keeping the fouling from sticking on baffles as long as you don't shoot it and then let it set for months. I just wipe it off and reapply. I've never had to tumble or use the dip or any of that other mess.

And I always unscrew my 22 silencers just a little (doesn't have to be all the way) when I'm done shooting. The Lock Cease works very well though if you forget. I also use it on all my muzzle devices.