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Why Ditch the LPVO with Offset Red Dot on your RECCE SPR & GPR

Delta Stryker HD. I honestly considered moving up to a vortex razor hd 2 but after comparing them, there damn near the same optic. Glass made by the same Japanese manufacturer as the razor, locking turrets, daylight bright illumination, and you'll save yourself around $400.
Once you spend enough time around vortex you realize youre paying a lot of money for the warranty youre guarunteed to have to use at least once
 
Lol. Says the swampfox guy. So many Lolz
Never broken a swamp fox. Broken 4 vortexes

Diamond back binos - never dropped or misused. Eye adjuster just stopped being able to adjust one day leaving one eye permanently blurry

Razor 1.5 - 8 LH - Never dropped or abused. Ability to adjust magnification froze up and eye box shrunk to nothing

Razor 1-6 E - never dropped or abused. reticle was loose/twisted inside the scope

Sparc 2 - Never dropped or abused. just stopped working one day.

Im a sample size of one but thats my experience
 
Today we are having a lesson in multi-quote!



For SFP LPVO 1-6 is perfect. 1-8, no bueno. Most 1-6 optics are used almost completely binary, 1 or 6. Once you get above that FFP is needed. As for parallax shift, IMO, that is a cheek weld issue and one reason why my LPVO's are mounted LOW with red dots on top. I routinely ran my Kahles K18i to 800 yards with no issues and even to 1000 yards a few different occasions with my 13.7" 5.56. No parallax issues, but I am anal about consistency on the stock and even have stick-on pads cut to ensure exact placement. Parallax on an LPVO is NOT something I want unless I am going to be running a lot of thermal clip-ons with that optic. LVPOs are for fighting rifles, are you going to dial in that parallax with someone shooting back? No, keep it simple. The Kahles K18i went away for me because it was a 1-8..in SFP. More than once I made holdover errors by not being at max magnification under duress and when I didn't make those errors, often times max magnification was too much and I couldn't see the full target array slowing me down, or had to go up/down repeatedly. Again, slow and inefficient.

Uh. No.

Yes, that will work, and I actually use this method when zeroing optics with no parallax but don't utilize it while shooting, focus on consistent cheek weld instead and let it fly.

Nothing wrong with this combo at all and I have run it before. You can get a TA33 in a SLR or Bobro LOW mount and even piggy back a RMR and still be comfortable on both. I believe 1x per 100 yards is optimal for a fighting carbine. You can get away with less, and more is welcome, but 1x per 100 is a sweet spot IMO. Before I was running the K18, I ran the Kahles K16i and that optic had no issues at 800 either.
I know exactly what you mean by scopes being treated as binary: 1x or max. And that was always my problem, I was on the wrong one! And once I put on the offset RDS and started leaving it at 6x (Vudu 1-6), I realized I used the RMR mostly so I was carrying 26oz around for the occasional longer shot AND the 1x to 6x jump was a lot. The ACOG at 4x and wider FOV made transitioning easier and is lighter and more rearward biased weight. The gun feels way better, the ACOG should be tougher, and I’m never fiddling with a magnification ring. I do give up magnification but since 400y is my max anyway, I’m happy with that.
 
Won't exist on my guns. Capped is fine, but don't expose and not lock. If March didn't have this problem I'd be a buyer.
You are so right... it's just a stupid design by people who don't use the product.

I blew a match after my windage knob rotated 3/4 of a turn going in (out?) of my case. I saw it, turned it 1/4 turn back to zero-- didn't carefully check the microscopic index marks, and proceeded to start the match. All was well until the 100 yards targets... that I was consistently missing. Figured it out, finished the match with hits... but lost LOTS of points.

Anyway, that's just a game. Now my scope "sports" TAPE holding the dang turrets in place. It's super-classy, but it does work.
 
I know exactly what you mean by scopes being treated as binary: 1x or max. And that was always my problem, I was on the wrong one! And once I put on the offset RDS and started leaving it at 6x (Vudu 1-6), I realized I used the RMR mostly so I was carrying 26oz around for the occasional longer shot AND the 1x to 6x jump was a lot. The ACOG at 4x and wider FOV made transitioning easier and is lighter and more rearward biased weight. The gun feels way better, the ACOG should be tougher, and I’m never fiddling with a magnification ring. I do give up magnification but since 400y is my max anyway, I’m happy with that.
I gotta say... sure you always want and can use more clear magnification, but for a .223 platform, 4X will pretty much get you there. I'd rather (and do) have 4X and a great eye box at 1X than a position-finicky 6 or 8X. YMMV.
 
any experience with the k18?
Yes, I own the K18i. It's a better K16i, but the move from 6 to 8 power shows the weakness of SFP above 6x. I tried to compensate by first going with a semi-unobtanium exposed top turret (that didn't lock and moved on me in my first comp):



To a truly unobtainium exposed-yet-capped turret (and its just too slow):



I think the K16i is the better fighting optic, despite the fact that the K18i is the better optic period. So it went from fighting rifle to hunting rifle for me, and its purrrfect there:

 
You are so right... it's just a stupid design by people who don't use the product.

I blew a match after my windage knob rotated 3/4 of a turn going in (out?) of my case. I saw it, turned it 1/4 turn back to zero-- didn't carefully check the microscopic index marks, and proceeded to start the match. All was well until the 100 yards targets... that I was consistently missing. Figured it out, finished the match with hits... but lost LOTS of points.

Anyway, that's just a game. Now my scope "sports" TAPE holding the dang turrets in place. It's super-classy, but it does work.
Get a ruler and a metallic paint pen and draw an arrow on top of the turret facing straight down the barrel, if it moves even one click it will be noticable.
 
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