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wolf primers at ammunition store 99.99/5000

$20/1K brick is very good. Wolf makes a decent primer too. The hazmat fee is $28.50. So that's 25.70 per 1K. But then there is $13.32 shipping?

Wolf packages them open end up and you don't have to use a primer flip tray.

Buy a couple of 5K/boxes and worth it ($22.87 + $13.32 shipping)

I'm not seeing $20 a 1K brick though. http://ammunitionstore.com/categories/reloading/primers.html

Sold out of regular pistol primers?
 
yes sir!
now I order 99.9% of my reloading stuff online, great savings (and good selection usually) for me, with powder in the 17-22 dollar a pound and primers (name brands) at about 25-27 per K , but then typically shipping and haz mat runs me about 40 bucks.
so I order at least 10 pounds of powder or 8-10 K primers or a mix of both of make it sensible to order and ship.
that bumps my actual price up about 4 bucks per item, of course no taxes or running around town to find the stuff as its dropped off at my door.
 
In my experience they are a little oversized and very hard to seat properly if at all, unless you have some worn out brass with loose primer pockets. I'll stick with Winchester CCI and Federal

You might want to start with 100 instead of 5000 to make sure they will work for you.
YMMV but I dont think so.
 
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The Wolf small pistol primers have given me some occasional issues in my Dillon auto primer feed but not enough to scratch them off the list.

Occasionally they miss being picked up and flip sideways being crushed in.

I had one sideways primer (missed that one) go off when nailed with the firing pin in a friend's nice HK P7 as he was shooting it. Made a bunch of delayed smoke (burning powder through flash hole) and freaked him out but bullet stayed seated.

The large primers rarely an issue or a nonissue. I do still hand prime my rifle brass with an RCBS unit. My Lee hand primers suck.

Wolf primers have a rep of being "harder" but that's the internet and debates of harder or just shorter spec and therefor more difficult to set off. Heck some pay more for harder primers for AR/M4/M16 ammo.

I don't have investments nor stock in Wolf....
 
Just convert them.
I have done some .303 Brit by just fixing the flash hole and using boxer primers. I did not experience the oversize primer pocket problem that he had in the video.
 
Be careful with the Wolf and Tula primers. The anvil has a tendency to fall out of them and you'll load a "dud" round. I used quite a bit of both when I worked for a commercial reloader, and I'd find anvils floating around in the vibratory primer tube filler. Sometimes the anvils would fall out of the primer cap when I was pouring them into the primer filler as well
 
the magnum cups are thicker,therefore harder. all tula/wolfs are slightly larger/fit firm. this is a good thing and extends the life of brass. a smart way is to run a smaller primer cci/fgmm then finish with tul/wolf when the ccis begin to get loose.

in handguns ,particularly striker guns with spring mods the thick pistol primer cups may produce some ftf so i steer clear of them for handgun.

i dont use tul/wolf when im fireforming 223 ackley b/c i will get some ftf in that scenario as well.

so in short they are just another tool in the tool box. they are great when used for the propper application

H Head that is some very good to know info on the anvils in vibratory primer fillers. i've threatened to get a dillon filler a couple times i will continue filling old school.

also i dont understand why all primer mfgs dont package like the russians. you got all this fluff giant box of fgmm primers. im not retarded,i know exactly whats in the box, why are you wasting my space!? plus the ruskys make it super easy to load primer tubes
 
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