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zeroing a scope for a noob

Check out the Nikon pro staff rimfire model, I have one on my custom ruger and one on my .17hmr, the reticle had a drop compensation and it works great, one of the best rimfire scopes I've seen.
 
sighting in the scope is half the fun of shooting! do it yourself. but u gotta make sure you have a rest for the gun or bipod. don't freehand the gun while sighting in.
 
The Simmons 22 mag scope is just simply a model name, it isn't intended to be used only with a 22 mag rifle. Start shooting at 25 yards, sight it in for 1.5" low at that distance then move out to fifty. You should be pretty close.
BTW as poor as the Simmons scopes are they are still better than BSA.
 
Sir, Start close in, 50 yrds. Get a piece of butcher paper out and put a target on it. In the middle of the target place a DARK cross hair or reference point you can clearly observe through your optic. Ensure you place your optic on the highest power before zeroing.

take up a good stable firing position, you and replicate every time.

Fire 3 rounds. If the rounds to fire look like they are vertical, your breathing is not right. Ensure you fire on that natural pause between breaths, then squeeze your trigger all the way back. After the recoil is over then release your trigger to return back to the forward position.

If your rounds are horizontal and not tight it is because of your trigger squeeze. The issue is you are jerking the trigger. You need to squeeze slowly, the round going off should be somewhat of a surprise.

once you achieve a tight shot group, adjust your windage and elevation knobs to the target.

YOU BUST ENSURE YOU KEEP THE EXACT SAME POINT OF AIM IN ORDER TO ACHIEVE A ZERO.

Suggestion: Only move either your elevation or windage one at a time. Once you get you windage or elevation inline with you target thenmove the other so everything is co aligned. once dome and you have a 50 yrd zero, move back 100 yrds and repeat the process.

I guarantee you will zero your rifle. Time it takes is 10-30 minutes.

Try this and let me know how it works for you!
V/R
Chris
 
Sir, Start close in, 50 yrds. Get a piece of butcher paper out and put a target on it. In the middle of the target place a DARK cross hair or reference point you can clearly observe through your optic. Ensure you place your optic on the highest power before zeroing.

take up a good stable firing position, you and replicate every time.

Fire 3 rounds. If the rounds to fire look like they are vertical, your breathing is not right. Ensure you fire on that natural pause between breaths, then squeeze your trigger all the way back. After the recoil is over then release your trigger to return back to the forward position.

If your rounds are horizontal and not tight it is because of your trigger squeeze. The issue is you are jerking the trigger. You need to squeeze slowly, the round going off should be somewhat of a surprise.

once you achieve a tight shot group, adjust your windage and elevation knobs to the target.

YOU BUST ENSURE YOU KEEP THE EXACT SAME POINT OF AIM IN ORDER TO ACHIEVE A ZERO.

Suggestion: Only move either your elevation or windage one at a time. Once you get you windage or elevation inline with you target thenmove the other so everything is co aligned. once dome and you have a 50 yrd zero, move back 100 yrds and repeat the process.

I guarantee you will zero your rifle. Time it takes is 10-30 minutes.

Try this and let me know how it works for you!
V/R
Chris

This is a very good method and is guaranteed effective!

As Redterror said, do it yourself, it's more fun. Sure you can take it to someone who can zero it for you, and when you go shooting you'll be close. But, unless you do it your zero will never be quite right. Besides, it's a skill worth learning in case you ever get another scope or rifle. Plus these basic fundamentals will improve your shooting overall.

Enjoy!
 
Check all your mount screws and make sure they are tight.

The slightest (and I mean ANY) movement will result in HUGE errors at any kind of distance.

Good rifle shooting is all about consistency. Everything must be the same for each shot. Shoulder position is very important, also, shooting from crouching down on a table (to get a good brace with a sandbag,) and then changing to any other position will change where you hit.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOf91pyh0DA&feature=related

(This is the best I could find)

I think that if you are having this large of a problem with sighting in, it problem has something to do with shoulder position, cheek position, or some such error. Just remember and make everything as consistent from shot to shot as possible. Shoulder position, and check position are very important.
 
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