Pistol primers & powder questions

[Lobo1]

I have a couple of questions I am hoping you good people can help me with.
First off in pistol reloading I mainly reload 9mm, 38 special and 357 magnum.
Regarding 357 magnum I usually load 125 grain. I have 231 and H110 powder. Do I necessarily need to use small pistol Magnum primers with these powders? I have read where non magnum primers are ok but I want some professional input from some of you.

Next question concerns 9mm reloading. I usually load 115 grain round nose for target loads. I have titegroup, 231 and I recently picked up some Hodgen 700X powder. My Sierra reloading manual says IMR 700X. Are these two the same?

Thank you for any input and advice. Have a great evening.

 

[RamRoddoc]

Unless the load data specifically states a magnum primer, a standard primer can be used and I have never had an issue with 231 or H110/W296-the bulkier/slower powders.

HP38 is the same as Win 231. I am not familiar with IMR 700X or Hod 700X.

 

[Lobo1]

Thank you RamRoddoc.

 

[Buckeye76]

The 231, 700x, and titegroup can all be used for 9mm.

700x and H110 can be used for 357.

Do a little research on the 700x. IMR 4895 and H4895 were a little different. They have done away with one of the powders and renamed the powder that was kept. If I remember, the original H4895 was done away with, but they re-branded the IMR4895 as H4895. Confusing huh!

The IMR 700x was a versatile powder and can load a wide array of calibers including some magnum.

 

[Lobo1]

Thank you Buckeye76

 

[rbstern]

The IMR brand is owned by Hodgdon, so 700X is likely just relabeled IMR 700X. The load data center on the Hodgdon web site should confirm that.

To add to the already excellent comments:

700X and Titegroup are fast burning pistol (and shotgun) powders. Win 231 is medium burning rate pistol powder. 110 is a slow burning pistol/magnum powder. While there's no cut-and-tried formula for how to apply them, I generally use fast powders for two purposes: 1) Light plinking loads, 2) max velocity out of short barrels, like a 38 snub. Win 231 is versatile in your cartridges. The 110 should probably be left for just the heavy 357 mag loads.

Based on the powders you have, here's a rough suggestion of purpose:

38 plinking loads: 700X, Titegroup (be cautious regarding double charges).
38 max performance loads (in anything above 2" barrel length): 231

357 plinking loads: 700X, Titegroup, 231 (be cautious regarding double charges).
357 full throttle loads: 110

9mm loads: 700X, Titegroup, 231, whichever seems to give you best function and accuracy with the 115 grain bullet. Pay attention to seating depth. Pressures climb quickly with these powders and a 9mm bullet seated too deeply.

I shoot a lot of 700X under 125 grain cast lead in 9mm. It's my favorite 9mm powder for target work.

 

[Lobo1]

Thank you very much for your input rbstern. When using 700x or Tightgroup for 357 magnum with a 125 gr bullet, couldn't I get by with small standard primers instead of magnum primers? Just wondering

 

[rbstern]

Thank you very much for your input rbstern. When using 700x or Tightgroup for 357 magnum with a 125 gr bullet, couldn't I get by with small standard primers instead of magnum primers? Just wondering

Absolutely.

When you're varying from a recipe (which the reloading manuals discourage for liability reasons), you have to use your head and think through the implications. The only difference between small pistol and small pistol magnum primers is the amount of "oomph" (aka, "brisance", in the world of primers and explosive compounds) the primer has. You're using a slightly tamer primer. As long as there are no other conditions which might cause that to be a problem, it will be fine.

One thing to keep track of: Sometimes, in a larger case like a 357 magnum, with light powder loads, especially using a weaker primer, the cartridges may be position sensitive, e.g., you'll get different performance when raising the gun up from waist level than if bringing the gun down from overhead, because one motion causes the small amount of powder to settle against the base of the bullet, while the other motion causes the powder to settle against the primer. This problem can be exacerbated by too light a crimp.

If you experience this, try a tighter crimp, or increase the amount of powder (but stay within published max loads).

 

[Lobo1]

Absolutely.

When you're varying from a recipe (which the reloading manuals discourage for liability reasons), you have to use your head and think through the implications. The only difference between small pistol and small pistol magnum primers is the amount of "oomph" (aka, "brisance", in the world of primers and explosive compounds) the primer has. You're using a slightly tamer primer. As long as there are no other conditions which might cause that to be a problem, it will be fine.

One thing to keep track of: Sometimes, in a larger case like a 357 magnum, with light powder loads, especially using a weaker primer, the cartridges may be position sensitive, e.g., you'll get different performance when raising the gun up from waist level than if bringing the gun down from overhead, because one motion causes the small amount of powder to settle against the base of the bullet, while the other motion causes the powder to settle against the primer. This problem can be exacerbated by too light a crimp.

If you experience this, try a tighter crimp, or increase the amount of powder (but stay within published max loads).

I never really thought about it that way but you are exactly right. With the powder settled against the bullet it would take longer to ignite and vice versa against the primer.

 

[Buckeye76]

I never really thought about it that way but you are exactly right. With the powder settled against the bullet it would take longer to ignite and vice versa against the primer.

That's why I like a fluffier powder for 38 and 357. Plus they leave less chance of double charges.