One problem is that a lot of suppliers are limiting primer sales to 1k/order or 8# powder/order. This makes a group buy problematic, especially when available components are so hard to find. You'd have to be ready to purchase as soon as a component was available, with no time to poll the group...
Needs to be climate controlled. My Dad used to store all his powder & primers in his garage (attached). Several pounds of powder went bad over 7 years. I assume because temps would spike in the summer with the door open. Prior to that, we stored powder & primers for 30+ years inside our old...
I don't have a single set of Dillon dies...don't know what all the hoopla is about. Already had dies from RCBS, Hornady, Redding and Lee. They've all worked perfectly in my 550B for the last 28 years. Had to buy some of Dillon's die lock rings so they would clear in the 550's small tool head...
I don't get too hot and bothered over the bushing #. They usually throw lighter for me than the book says. I go by my scale and if the bushing isn't throwing enough (say, it's .5 gr light), I'll typically ream it out until it does. If it's within .2 gr, I generally leave it as-is.
Might want to pick up a Lyman Shotshell manual. Has a lot of info on hulls/hull types, wads, powders, and loads of all kinds, including steel.
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Here's another thread on the 127 LRX. A5Blaster has a bit of experience with the LRX.
https://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthread.php?21590-127-lrx-starting-loads&highlight=127+lrx
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Here's a thread.
https://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthread.php?23354-Needs-min-max-loads-for-Nosler-125gr-Partition-and-Barnes-127-LRX-using-CFE223&highlight=Barnes+lrx
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I would call Ramshot. A guy at the range several years ago got load info from one of their engineers for the new (at the time) Barnes .22 TTSX. He was inquiring specifically about TAC, but if they've been working on load data, they might be able to help. Also, go to the 65Grendel.com message...
Well...you can't really figure .223 costs like you can 9mm & .45 Colt. 223 takes a lot of prep work on the brass before you reload, making it a labor-intensive endeavor.
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I imagine in a HD situation, you'd be shooting multiple shots anyway. Once adrenaline starts pumping, all precision shooting goes out the window.
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Probably 1:8, although some 1:9 bbls will stabilize 75gr. But at HD ranges, it probably doesn't matter. In fact, some might say a destabilized bullet is better at stopping?
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If you're buying ammo locally, you're not shooting enough. You can order by the case and get some great deals (and not be limited to 4 boxes Lol). Likewise, buying reloading components at your LGS, you'll generally pay more, negating your savings from reloading.
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Reloading components are hard to find right now. 9mm is almost not worth reloading. You can buy it in bulk for about the price to reload, unless you really shop for component deals.
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I think that's the problem with most of the collet pullers, especially with something like 9mm or .40 S&W. You have to have enough surface area to grip the bullet, which is why kinetic pullers work best for me (I reload mostly handgun ammo).
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I've owned several RCBS over the years. All of them will eventually break. I currently have a Frankfort Arsenal (Midway) that has worked as well as the RCBS & was cheaper.
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I took a brief look at them myself. I just didn't have the time to spend refurbing/refinishing them myself. Kudos to the OP.
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