Looks great! I'll have to try that.
Back in the early 70s, I used Herters Belgian Blue on a 94 Swedish Mauser. It was really a rust blue process and it did a fantastic job, although it required a number of iterations of boiling, applying, boiling, carding. When I sold it 35 years later, it...
Depending on the steel's metallurgy, I've had rifles I had to pickle first with a dilute HCl solution. Eventually, Brownell's Oxphoblue did the job.
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@madmarinehayes is giving you good advice, unless you can find a friend to let you borrow some different buffers. I'm shooting a 6.5 Grendel that I was convinced was overgassed until last weekend (threw brass at 1:00 o'clock and BCG occasionally overran the next round in mag).
On a hunch...
Are you using a crush washer? If so, I've never had to use any rockset or Locktite as long as the flash hider or muzzlebrake is torqued properly.
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You might want to go that clamp route. Pulled out my old compressor and somewhere over the last 20 years, I misplaced the receiver cradle & clamp (it was mounted to the plywood). The advantage with this setup was that the clamp length allowed disassembly with the bbl in place or removed, plus...
Until I get home & take pics, this could work if you're careful. These type bar clamps weren't readily available when I started working on airguns.
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@GeauxLSU I have an old pipe clamp I used to use for spring compression if you want to borrow it. Its cobbled together with some plywood, u-bolts, & duct tape to hold the receiver, but you can modify it to fit if you want to try.
I know nothing about how the Norica receivers come apart, but...
I used to tear down English & German Beeman spring guns all the time, but have never disassembled that particular Marksman. There are a few airgunsmiths that will rebuild them, but unsure if that particular one might be worth it.
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If someone wanted a shiny "BBQ Gun", I guess they would have finished it off with pearl grips. You can look up manufacturing dates here:
https://ruger.com/dataProcess/serialHistory/
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Ruger never made a stainless 3-screw. Also none that were nickel plated that I'm aware of. Like Fat Albert suggested, stripping and replating are the best options, assuming you want it nickeled. I would strip it and have it reblued.
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To add to what @GeauxLSU said, I'd also use Breakfree CLP instead of Ballistol. Ballistol is fine for rust prevention/cleaning, but I've had better results in removing corrosion with CLP.
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Use who you want, but there's no one in Georgia at present who would touch my gun for this type of work. It's too bad Jim Stroh of Alpha Precision retired in 2015. He was the best!
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I just realized that the recommended cylinder reaming guy on Castboolits who goes by "DougGuy" is the same person in NC who runs the shop you referenced called Cylinderhone. Sounds like he'll be back in town on 7/22, so you might just wait on him if Fermin can't get it done. DougGuy has a...