45acp in a glock 30

I was down at Glock in Smyrna about a month ago and shooting lead bullets was one of my questions. The tech said well you get lead build up and it only comes with a soft barrel brush lol. Is that all ??? He said yes lol. So is there another reason I don't know about shooting lead in a Glock barrel ??


Lead is easier to remove then copper fouling. Softer and less adhesion. I only shoot lead from my Glock G36. It is accurate and safe. When I do get leading (very rare) in any of my traditionally rifled barrels I just Kroil them, let them sit and wrap a bore brush with fine steel wool and punch them out. Lead gone. My .45 ACP bullets are 230gr. Lee TC sized at .452 and come out to Lyman #2 on the SAECO scale. They are entirely made from clip on wheel weights. I have successfully shot cast in G19, G22, G34, G20, G23, G26 and the G36. Will lead "skid" through non traditional rifling? Sure will, depending on speed and fitment of bullet to bore/groove. It will "skid" through traditional rifling too if too small or pushed too fast. When I am done shooting any gun (G36 included) I clean them. I know they may sound crazy, but it's true. Kroil, brush, wipe down and oil back up and ready for the next outing. I don't "torture test" my guns or bury them in sand or neglect to clean them for years at a time. They are a tool and I take care of my tools. A lot of "kabooms" have occurred due to non supported chambers and heavily ramped chambers. That coupled with "warm/hot" loads will lead to catastrophic failure. We suffer from "magnum mania" in the shooting community-Hotter, Faster, Bigger. This leads to many problems with gun damage, and internet hyperbole; things get repeated over and over and over and over and over again. If you reload, be careful, read your manuals (not just internet) keep your loads sane, don't get distracted and enjoy yourself in this great hobby.
 
You are welcome!

Keep in mind that I agree with EMC in that minimal lead projectile shooting with prompt cleaning afterwards can be "safe"
However, some who shoot either don't check often enough to see how fast / much lead is building up, don't remember to clean out the lead deposits or just don't bother to clean their weapons at all! These guys will eventually have a problem with even standard groove barrels!

I use a mixture of 50/50 Hoppe's #9 and Marvel Mystery Oil AND / OR Ed's Red instead of Kroll (to save money and still get the job done!)
I normally use a piece of a Chore-Boy Copper dish-washing Scrubber OR a piece of a Teflon Pan Scrubber soaked in
either Ed's Red (which I make) OR the Hoppe / Marvel mixture. Then after an overnight soak, lead (and copper) fouling
simply brushes right out. If I run into a really abused barrel, I will use my home-made electrostatic processing to completely
remove any and all fouling.

Proper casting and loading of lead projectiles is based upon some serious science and experience from those who have
been doing it for decades. I know that I'm NOT and expert and defer such to those who have "been there and done that".
For some really serious discussions on lead projectile use, go to the Cast Bullet Forum ... Expertise can be obtained there!

BTW: for many of the reason stated above, I have almost switched totally to heavily plated projectiles
 
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The cast bullets that I've been using have been made from wheel weights. They shot well in the 1911s that I've owned. EMC45,kroil is some good stuff. Always used it on the 1911s.
 
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