Glock Conversion Barrels

[1jcwallace]

Pull out the OEM Glock .40 S&W Barrel and drop in the LW Recommended 40/9 Conversion Barrel, reassemble, load
a 9mm Glock Magazine of the proper length (or longer) and fire away PERIOD.

I can change my G23 into 9mm in about 1 minute, then back again to factory .40 in another minute.
Both versions are accurate and function flawlessly ... I have a G35 similarly equipped: same process, same results!

What part of this simple explanation is so hard for everyone to understand?

I got it. I understand. I was new to the idea bc I had never had a reason to shoot 9 until recently when I shot my friends G19. There is hardly any recoil compared to my 40.... However, I still sho the 40 better as of todays range visit. I am NOT selling my 40's but if I can shoot 9mm without buying another gun, I am all for it. I just wish LW made the 40-9 conversion barrel in black?

 

[$nipertime]

Lone wolf- made in s Korea
Kkm precision- made in the USA by a family owned and operated company

Lone wolf is known for loose tolorances and chattered rifling.

 

[db366]

Lone wolf- made in s Korea
Kkm precision- made in the USA by a family owned and operated company

Lone wolf is known for loose tolorances and chattered rifling.

I did a large amount of research before buying my lwd23-9 and never saw any of these complaints. Actually the only bad thing I saw was what lone wolf said about less than 1 percent needing to have +p ran through it first.

 

[$nipertime]

http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1414663
crappy QC
Crappy customer service

I have owned a few not impressed. I have two in kkm and am glad I spent the money

 

[db366]

So pretty much if you are willing buying the barrel for shooting lead or swc's then just pay the extra to get it throated. I just shoot fmj's through mine so I have had no problems with it.

 

[Clarke123]

Pull out the OEM Glock .40 S&W Barrel and drop in the LW Recommended 40/9 Conversion Barrel, reassemble, load
a 9mm Glock Magazine of the proper length (or longer) and fire away PERIOD.

I can change my G23 into 9mm in about 1 minute, then back again to factory .40 in another minute.
Both versions are accurate and function flawlessly ... I have a G35 similarly equipped: same process, same results!

What part of this simple explanation is so hard for everyone to understand?

In addition to the 40/9 conversion barrel for my G23, I also have a LW .40 replacement barrel that I bought to shoot
cast .40's with ... It's as accurate as the factory barrel and has NO ISSUES with leading or otherwise ...
Yes, I'm well pleased with my LW purchases!

 

[Laxguy59]

Anyone tried the 45-10mm conversion from KKM?

 

[RamRoddoc]

I just wish LW made the 40-9 conversion barrel in black?

Most aftermarket makers/sellers of Glock barrels offer some type of black oxide/isonite process that blackens the metal. Lone wolf offers this as an upcharge for $24.95.

http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1154&CAT=3680

Cheaper than Dirt has the Lone Wolf barrels (conversion too) on sale right now for $99.97/ threaded $109.97. They are not a bad deal and if you do have issues with it, return it and they will make it right. They have had tolerance issues in the past and I'm sure to come as they do a lot of volume.

The only issues you may encounter are the barrels "offer match grade performance". While they are not so bold as to say it is a "Match Grade" barrel it does offer a tighter chamber than factory Glock. That's not necessarily a great thing. Glock chambers offer an accurately measured amount of slop in order to feed a wide variety of ammo and also to account for the condition of the ammo (a bit of debris can/will cause feeding issues). I'm not sure "Match Grade" is really necessary or desired for a combat pistol's intended role.

To clarify, as a reloader Match Grade barrels have recently given me some grief and required a few additions to my bench. The Match Grade Glock barrels I recently picked up challenged me to open/hone the chambers and resize all the way past the base of the case in order to allow better feeding and at worst at least to allow the slide to go in battery. Lone Wolf specifically mentions this in their FAQ's and recommends the Redding push through die. I went with the Lee (bulge buster) die but both probably have the same results.

If all you ever shoot is factory ammo or only reload for one barrel you really should not have an issue, unless you purchase fired brass or range pick up brass fired from a different barrel.

I went with the Storm Lake barrels for several reasons but if I was pinching my coin, I would not hesitate to pick up a Lone Wolf barrel for a conversion or to simply (safely) shoot cheap lead cast bullets.