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GMC bitch. Engineers that designed this Yukon Denali with 6.2 never turned a wrench or know what one is.

In keeping with the title of this thread I have one more bitch to add. AFM otherwise known as Active Fuel Management that is in older Yukon 1500 XL Denali's with a 6.2L and other engines. It constantly shifts between 8 cyl and 4 cyl. GM's smartass engineers claim it saves up to 12% in gas however owners report saving 1 mile per gallon. It causes lifter failure, higher oil consumption and the problems I had with the truck hesitating, shuddering and nearly stalling out while driving less than 50mph.
 
In keeping with the title of this thread I have one more bitch to add. AFM otherwise known as Active Fuel Management that is in older Yukon 1500 XL Denali's with a 6.2L and other engines. It constantly shifts between 8 cyl and 4 cyl. GM's smartass engineers claim it saves up to 12% in gas however owners report saving 1 mile per gallon. It causes lifter failure, higher oil consumption and the problems I had with the truck hesitating, shuddering and nearly stalling out while driving less than 50mph.
Japanese makes have been doing the equivalent for decades.
Big 3 just can't figure out how.
 
In keeping with the title of this thread I have one more bitch to add. AFM otherwise known as Active Fuel Management that is in older Yukon 1500 XL Denali's with a 6.2L and other engines. It constantly shifts between 8 cyl and 4 cyl. GM's smartass engineers claim it saves up to 12% in gas however owners report saving 1 mile per gallon. It causes lifter failure, higher oil consumption and the problems I had with the truck hesitating, shuddering and nearly stalling out while driving less than 50mph.
If your mechanically inclined and you feel like you want to take care of that they do have a lockout kit that you can go in and make that go away. It's just a plug-in kit that will lock that out. I for one wouldn't be able to handle that feature. Or for a more permanent solution you can use the AFM / DFM disabler which a tuner can do it and wipe that out permanently. A more temporary fix is to manually put your transmission into 5th gear. Then it won't drop from 8 cyl. to 4 cyl. like that but it's a hassle you have to do it every time. I would take it to a tuner and have them disable the feature. It is costly but it will keep that aggravating crap from happening. Normally it's about $1,000 to have somebody tune your LS based engine. But if all you want to do is control that cylinder drop you might be able to get by with purchasing the credits which are $100 per car ( that's what they used to be anyway ) and then paying a small fee for him to lock that out. Your car will remain in his computer definitely and if you have any other things you want to have done you can take it back to him and have it performed. I would call one of your local tuners and check into it if it's that big of a deal to you. These tuners can do just about anything you want to engines if you get a good one.
 
I have a beautiful Silverado 2012. Love the way the 5.3 runs and sounds. Ride is great! This is a big car for all practical purposes. 4 wheel drive with short bed doesn't lend itself to much truck stuff but it sure is pretty. My biggest gripe when comparing it to my 2010 F150 is the interior, door handles etc.... Are all thin plastic garbage. Cracked up dash, replaced 3 of the 4 door handles and the interior arm rests collapse..... All with less than 100k miles. F150 now approaching 200k miles has none of these problems. Just normal wear items and transmission pan gasket went at 140k, breaks hold up better but wears outside edge of tires worse than the Chevy. Overall I will take the dependability and functionality of the F150 (I can load 25 -12' sheets of drywall on the 150 no problem) over the Silverado. Selling both to get a F250 it's time
I have 1998 ford 150 over 200,000 bought new body kinda rough got leak around back glass regular maintenance 4 WD few minor problems. Only thing I worry bout is Fuel Pump
 
Another one to the list. GM Engineers decided not to add a drain valve to the OEM radiator in this Yukon. The only way to drain it is to remove the lower radiator hose. Assholes!
The 05 Dodge I have has one. If you try to use it, it won't screw back in. The replacement for my 84 Monte Carlo doesn't line up with the OEM hole, so I can't use it.........😡
 
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