Sully 870 Ejector System
www.weaponsarmorer.com
Is anyone here familiar with, or used the above linked 870 ejector setup?
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Remington 870 Ejector?
- Thread starter Boot71
- Start date
Is anyone here familiar with, or used the above linked 870 ejector setup?
cmshoot
I just think it’s an absolutely genius product that fills a big void left by Remington during the company change-over and I wish Sully will become a multi millionaire from this creative solution. There are so many 870 owners out there.
I just picked up a mint cond mid 80’s Rem 870 Magnum from a great odt trader here and was researching all about it. Seems like the guns are extremely solid but if the ejector tip breaks or the ejector spring gets bent from a cleaning goof or super heavy use fracture whatnot it’s a rivet together affair which doesn’t scare me…but problem is you can’t find those springs easily anymore. You can get the rivet set, the rivets, but not the spring. If you somehow find a spring, you can shave mushroom and repeen orig without having to shave and re-blue, but that feels half-azz to me.
This solution simply dremel shave mushroom tops off the rivets, support receiver and punch rivets out, then blue loctite back in this assembly. Ive read it also ejects out 3” with more oomphf and the thicker ejector supports more solid the barrel.
So sorry long winded, I just discovered this solution last night and it made me happy as heck!!
I just picked up a mint cond mid 80’s Rem 870 Magnum from a great odt trader here and was researching all about it. Seems like the guns are extremely solid but if the ejector tip breaks or the ejector spring gets bent from a cleaning goof or super heavy use fracture whatnot it’s a rivet together affair which doesn’t scare me…but problem is you can’t find those springs easily anymore. You can get the rivet set, the rivets, but not the spring. If you somehow find a spring, you can shave mushroom and repeen orig without having to shave and re-blue, but that feels half-azz to me.
This solution simply dremel shave mushroom tops off the rivets, support receiver and punch rivets out, then blue loctite back in this assembly. Ive read it also ejects out 3” with more oomphf and the thicker ejector supports more solid the barrel.
So sorry long winded, I just discovered this solution last night and it made me happy as heck!!
I had to replace one and found NOS on eBay. That being said after you install it you have to file or grind down the excess so you don’t slice open your hand or fingers
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I have the tools to do the stepped rivet replacement, and have done the repair before for my agency. The problem now is you can’t get the replacement parts. ANYWHERE.
They are indeed scarce. That's why I was looking at the linked aftermarket part. Definitely not the cheapest option, but hopefully it'll last long enough to warrant the expense.
Two of the parts that I need to do FlexTab "upgrades" are currently almost unobtainium. The bolts aren't an issue; I can machine the modification to them, and I've got a lot of 'em on hand. I can only find the carriers and the slide assemblies as used, overpriced items on eBay.
I may have to start modifying the slide assemblies. It's doable, but not something that I wanted to do. Carriers, on the other hand.......
I may have to start modifying the slide assemblies. It's doable, but not something that I wanted to do. Carriers, on the other hand.......
To the Moderators of this forum, I was made aware of this post a few minutes ago, so I joined the forum to help answer any questions or give any insight. Please let me know if I post anything that is out of line.
That is my ejector system you mention. Please ask questions if you have any, and I am happy to help give answers.
As for how the factory 870 ejector system breaks, it is usually operator error. If the barrel is off the receiver, and the action bar assembly (Pump forend) is to the rear, and the user tries to reinstall the barrel is when the problem of fit can happen and the ejector gets cracked or broken off. Some of the forends do not allow for clearance on the larger diameter of the back of the barrel being inserted into the receiver, so what happens when the barrel is inserted into the receiver and the action bar assembly is to the rear, and it doesn't fit quite correctly, it will cause the barrel lug to be about 1/4" or more off center to fit onto the front end of the magazine tube. The user tendency is to squeeze the barrel to align the barrel lug to fit onto the magazine tube, which will align, but then back end of the barrel will push up on the tip of the ejector, and this upward leverage will often times cause the ejector to crack or break off right at the front factory rivet hole. This now requires a complete ejector system replacement, as the tip of the ejector missing will allow the barrel to rotate and this will cause locking and unlocking issues.
As for breaking the factory ejector spring. This usually happens due to the trigger group being removed, and when someone goes to clean, they get something under the ejector spring and bend it upwards or sideways out of alignment with the track in the factory ejector. Now when the gun is reassembled, if the ejector springs sits up too high or slightly off center from the ejector track, the action will bind as it is cycled, and this will cause the spring to either bend further, but most times break off. If you can find a factory OEM spring, you can do a one time replacement if you have a special drill bit for the front rivet. If you do not have the special drill bit, then the front rivet will need to be replaced to do a factory spring replacement.
When Remington parts disappeared after their last bankruptcy in 2020, we needed parts for repairs, and for the Armorer courses we teach. So with no parts, I went to work in the machine shop and came up with the one we offer which is screwed in, instead of riveted. If you have questions, please ask.
CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
WeaponsArmorer
SLR15 Rifles
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