I reload because I can.
There is a proud heritage associated with loading your own. Whether it be the stonewall brigade dropping powder and shot down the muzzle, the cowboy of the west or inkdaddy and drtybykr loading their own pistol rounds, reloading is part of being a free man.
I reload because I can.
Start with a good book. Read thru them to get a basic understanding of what you are getting into and learn the terms.
A good beginners book is Metallic Cartridge Reloading http://www.amazon.com/Metallic-Cartr.../dp/0873491807
Also recommend this; http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading.../dp/0896896099
"Never use just one source. Read about a topic, then find a few more articles on the topic."
Basic Stuff:
1. Basic list of required equipment: Press, dies, etc.
2. Good starter press
3. Are presses mounted to a table?
4. About how much time per round to handload?
5. Any random tips?
(1): A decent O frame press, carbide dies, magnetic dampened scale, powder measure, priming system, vibratory case cleaner-media/polish, loading blocks, case lube-spray on, primer flip tray, case trimmer, decent caliper, chamfering hand tool, and perhaps for military brass a primer pocket swager.
(2): For the coin Lee is hard to beat and they make starter kits that will save you some cash.
(A) Single Stage Press: One single die mounted in the press, performs 1 or more functions with one throw of the handle.
(B) Turret Press: Can mount Multiple Dies in the Turret. Usually 3-6 holes for dies. Handy if you get one that has easily removable turrets. You can purchase extra turrets and set your dies up per each caliber and change turrets depending on said caliber to be loaded. You Manually move the turret to the die that provides the function of the step you are performing.
(C) Progressive Press : Very similar to the Turret Press. Multiple dies in the Turret, and with each throw of the handle the turret automatically advances the dies and cartridge through the Progressive (steps) of loading the cartridge.
(3): Presses should be mounted to a heavy sturdy table-drilled and bolted, the table can and should be secured to the wall.
(4): Time? As much as you need to insure total safety. This is not a activity to be rushed.
(5): Tips, The NRA has classes for reloaders and I would encourage you to get signed up for one. Some ranges offer a reloading class as well.
http://nrainstructors.org/searchcourse.aspx
Now on to reloading pearls:
I think Chuck dog rightly suggest for a newbie starting out with a single stage press. Your initial cost will be less and if and when you decide to move on to a progressive press you can still use it and the supporting accessories. I still do all my rifle reloading with a single stage O frame press. I shoot a lot of pistol ammo and a progressive just is a much more efficient but a bit more complicated method of reloading. You can get plenty of recommendations of types of presses, powder measures, components etc. here at the ODT.
The easiest cartridge type to reload is straight walled pistol type with carbide pistol/revolver dies. Necked brass typically takes an extra step to lube the brass prior to sizing in order to prevent stuck cartridges. The whole process is fairly simple and if you can change your own spark plugs then you should be able to reload you own ammo.
To get started you will need a decent bench to mount your press and if able then secure it to the wall. If you have kids, try to keep this an off limits (lock and key) area. A good press then can be mounted and secured. A good lighting source is necessary and area should be away from flame or fire.
You will need a basic reloading manual that does just that.
First step is case preparation:
New brass of same manufacture can be used typically as is. I do check the lengths of a few to spot check it for QC and if all is Gucci then use it as is. Some will trim the necks so all the brass is as close to uniform as possible and this is commonly done on previously fired brass that has stretched from repeated firings.
If you have exceeded overall length more than once beware that as the neck length grows, the brass thins and may require repeated trimmings that will eventually lead to brass failure. This is more of a problem with rifle brass and the hotter the round the more it becomes an issue (22-250, 220 Swift etc.).
Now the whole reason many reload is to save a bit of coin that can allow more shooting. So, used brass is a great way to save money. For rifle I try and keep head stamps and lot numbers the same as variants will have thinner or thicker cases that can and has led to excessive chamber pressures for some reloaders. Military brass is notably thicker and same loads in this brass can raise pressures to excess that are ok for other makes of brass.
For my pistols more often than not, I mix it up as the pressures are a lot less and it doesn't seem to be an issue.
Cleaning the brass allows less wear and tear on dies and smoother operation. The old fired brass may be cleaned and a vibratory cleaner has worked best for me. I use crushed walnut hull media and a liquid cleaner added to the media. A brass case specific polish can be added or just get some Nu-Finish, once a year car polish.
Don't overload your vibratory cleaner or it will die a slow death. I measure out the number of brass in an old coffee can to keep within the recommended "round count" that the maker recommends as max. After clean, I inspect the brass for cracks, splits, bulges or other defect that mandates discarding. I do pick up range brass and much of it is once fired but I do occasionally find some that a reloader has pretty much used it up. Any further reloading would incur a risk to firearm and self. Range brass typically never gets maximum loads and I save factory data recommended hot loads for new or maybe my own once fired factory brass.
Once you have your brass ready-new is ready for priming. Fired brass needs to decapped, resized and primed. I have a hand primer that is very easy to use and you can prime brass while watching T.V. Most presses today have a priming feature and you may not need a hand primer press. If it has this feature make sure it's functional or you purchase the accessories needed to make it so if it's what you will use to prime your cases.
You will need a set of dies and these come in different flavors. A key thing is that carbide dies typically rule. Carbide straight walled pistol dies allow one to omit lubing the case. Some do lube cases but like 1 out of every 10 or so which reduces friction, wear and tear on dies.
Necked case dies will require some lube to prevent a stuck case. I have had good results with the Lee collet dies too. Get a good understanding of what each die does and most have instructions on basic setup included.
You will need a powder measure that meters the type of powder you plan to use. Some work great with larger size powders (actual size of each particle of powder) but fail with small ball type powders. When you figure out what caliber and what type of powder you will attempt to use then just post a thread on recommendations for a measure or appropriate powder. Some folks just use a powder scoop-measure and it works well for them. Powder measures come with some dies or you can buy or make your own. I have used old cartridges for a field expedient measure. Although I prefer throwing a handle on a decent measure to charge a case. Most are very accurate to a 1/10th of a grain.
You must have an accurate powder scales. Try to get one that is magnetically dampened so it stabilizes quickly. You can weigh every charge and I do this on some rifle loads. But mostly it is just a safety check to make sure my measure is metering correctly or when making powder adjustments. Electric scales can be expensive and some quirky.
After getting the powder sorted out and in the case then seat your bullet. Some dies come with different screw in seaters for round nose or flat nose bullets. You will need to measure the overall cartridge length (OAL) to insure at minimum it meets the standard guidelines. However some rounds and even some guns have an optimal OAL that they prefer for optimal function. For instance .45 ACP has an optimal understood OAL 1.26" for 230 grain FMJ. I have an old caliper/dial type that I only use when the battery goes out of my General English/metric LCD caliper measure. If you have a particular brand of ammo that works really well with your gun then copy the OAL from it and it may work as well as bullet weight.
Now the final step the crimp. Two common basic types are the taper (mostly semi-auto pistol) and rolled crimp (seen commonly in heavy recoiling magnum revolvers and used in typically cannlure bullets). I always double check the OAL after crimping initially until I'm satisfied it is good to go. Don't over crimp as it increases pressure and distorts the bullet body.
Other things that really you should get for reloading:
Reloading blocks
Bullet puller (kinetic types are cheap and used for multiple round types)
Trimmer for rifle brass and hand chamfering tool
Primer pocket swager if you have a lot of once fired military brass-the primer is crimped in my old brass.
Strainer for cleaning media to separate brass (Mine once was my wife's kitchen colander).
Storage bins for fired caliber segregated-I use coffee cans, cardboard boxes and have some nice cheap plastic storage bins I picked up.
For live rounds-some nice plastic cases are nice to have but for bulk I use old army ammo cans.
Spray on case lube for necked cartridges-the case blocks make this too easy, compared to old pad and roll lube.
Now not in keeping with the bottom line up front, SAFETY! Never compromise safety! Most blown up guns are the direct result of reloading errors.
Here are the more common causes of reloading Ka-Booms:
Double charge of powder
Wrong powder for data used
Wrong weight bullet for data
Compressing the non-compressible powder charge (too deeply seated bullet)
Excessively worn brass
Other things that can contribute:
High riding primers-primer not fully seated
Excessive crimping
There are others and a basic reloading manual should make you aware of them.
Don't reload 1K of ammo only to find it doesn't work well. Load 20-50 or so and fire it up checking for reliability, signs of excessive pressure/power and any other factors you consider important. Reloading can be a lot of fun but if you want to save money, don't do it. It just often leads to buying more stuff and shooting a heck of a lot more.
"I was one of those people who "learn by doing", I am hard headed and don't like to read instructions. I have been reloading for 35 or so years and the only part of the manual I looked at was the load data for what ever ammo I was loading at the time. A few months ago, I bought a new Lyman #49 and I actually opened it up and started reading it. Then I bought a new Speer manual and I read that one, too. What a world of information was in that first 1/3 of those books. I wish I had done the reading 35 years ago, I would probably be better at reloading if I had. Listen to these folks and read, READ the manual before you start!! If you can't read, get someone to read it to you (I am not implying, at all, that you can't read)."
Credit due to petro_58, Chuckdog and other ODT reloaders.
There is a proud heritage associated with loading your own. Whether it be the stonewall brigade dropping powder and shot down the muzzle, the cowboy of the west or inkdaddy and drtybykr loading their own pistol rounds, reloading is part of being a free man.
I reload because I can.
Start with a good book. Read thru them to get a basic understanding of what you are getting into and learn the terms.
A good beginners book is Metallic Cartridge Reloading http://www.amazon.com/Metallic-Cartr.../dp/0873491807
Also recommend this; http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading.../dp/0896896099
"Never use just one source. Read about a topic, then find a few more articles on the topic."
Basic Stuff:
1. Basic list of required equipment: Press, dies, etc.
2. Good starter press
3. Are presses mounted to a table?
4. About how much time per round to handload?
5. Any random tips?
(1): A decent O frame press, carbide dies, magnetic dampened scale, powder measure, priming system, vibratory case cleaner-media/polish, loading blocks, case lube-spray on, primer flip tray, case trimmer, decent caliper, chamfering hand tool, and perhaps for military brass a primer pocket swager.
(2): For the coin Lee is hard to beat and they make starter kits that will save you some cash.
(A) Single Stage Press: One single die mounted in the press, performs 1 or more functions with one throw of the handle.
(B) Turret Press: Can mount Multiple Dies in the Turret. Usually 3-6 holes for dies. Handy if you get one that has easily removable turrets. You can purchase extra turrets and set your dies up per each caliber and change turrets depending on said caliber to be loaded. You Manually move the turret to the die that provides the function of the step you are performing.
(C) Progressive Press : Very similar to the Turret Press. Multiple dies in the Turret, and with each throw of the handle the turret automatically advances the dies and cartridge through the Progressive (steps) of loading the cartridge.
(3): Presses should be mounted to a heavy sturdy table-drilled and bolted, the table can and should be secured to the wall.
(4): Time? As much as you need to insure total safety. This is not a activity to be rushed.
(5): Tips, The NRA has classes for reloaders and I would encourage you to get signed up for one. Some ranges offer a reloading class as well.
http://nrainstructors.org/searchcourse.aspx
Now on to reloading pearls:
I think Chuck dog rightly suggest for a newbie starting out with a single stage press. Your initial cost will be less and if and when you decide to move on to a progressive press you can still use it and the supporting accessories. I still do all my rifle reloading with a single stage O frame press. I shoot a lot of pistol ammo and a progressive just is a much more efficient but a bit more complicated method of reloading. You can get plenty of recommendations of types of presses, powder measures, components etc. here at the ODT.
The easiest cartridge type to reload is straight walled pistol type with carbide pistol/revolver dies. Necked brass typically takes an extra step to lube the brass prior to sizing in order to prevent stuck cartridges. The whole process is fairly simple and if you can change your own spark plugs then you should be able to reload you own ammo.
To get started you will need a decent bench to mount your press and if able then secure it to the wall. If you have kids, try to keep this an off limits (lock and key) area. A good press then can be mounted and secured. A good lighting source is necessary and area should be away from flame or fire.
You will need a basic reloading manual that does just that.
First step is case preparation:
New brass of same manufacture can be used typically as is. I do check the lengths of a few to spot check it for QC and if all is Gucci then use it as is. Some will trim the necks so all the brass is as close to uniform as possible and this is commonly done on previously fired brass that has stretched from repeated firings.
If you have exceeded overall length more than once beware that as the neck length grows, the brass thins and may require repeated trimmings that will eventually lead to brass failure. This is more of a problem with rifle brass and the hotter the round the more it becomes an issue (22-250, 220 Swift etc.).
Now the whole reason many reload is to save a bit of coin that can allow more shooting. So, used brass is a great way to save money. For rifle I try and keep head stamps and lot numbers the same as variants will have thinner or thicker cases that can and has led to excessive chamber pressures for some reloaders. Military brass is notably thicker and same loads in this brass can raise pressures to excess that are ok for other makes of brass.
For my pistols more often than not, I mix it up as the pressures are a lot less and it doesn't seem to be an issue.
Cleaning the brass allows less wear and tear on dies and smoother operation. The old fired brass may be cleaned and a vibratory cleaner has worked best for me. I use crushed walnut hull media and a liquid cleaner added to the media. A brass case specific polish can be added or just get some Nu-Finish, once a year car polish.
Don't overload your vibratory cleaner or it will die a slow death. I measure out the number of brass in an old coffee can to keep within the recommended "round count" that the maker recommends as max. After clean, I inspect the brass for cracks, splits, bulges or other defect that mandates discarding. I do pick up range brass and much of it is once fired but I do occasionally find some that a reloader has pretty much used it up. Any further reloading would incur a risk to firearm and self. Range brass typically never gets maximum loads and I save factory data recommended hot loads for new or maybe my own once fired factory brass.
Once you have your brass ready-new is ready for priming. Fired brass needs to decapped, resized and primed. I have a hand primer that is very easy to use and you can prime brass while watching T.V. Most presses today have a priming feature and you may not need a hand primer press. If it has this feature make sure it's functional or you purchase the accessories needed to make it so if it's what you will use to prime your cases.
You will need a set of dies and these come in different flavors. A key thing is that carbide dies typically rule. Carbide straight walled pistol dies allow one to omit lubing the case. Some do lube cases but like 1 out of every 10 or so which reduces friction, wear and tear on dies.
Necked case dies will require some lube to prevent a stuck case. I have had good results with the Lee collet dies too. Get a good understanding of what each die does and most have instructions on basic setup included.
You will need a powder measure that meters the type of powder you plan to use. Some work great with larger size powders (actual size of each particle of powder) but fail with small ball type powders. When you figure out what caliber and what type of powder you will attempt to use then just post a thread on recommendations for a measure or appropriate powder. Some folks just use a powder scoop-measure and it works well for them. Powder measures come with some dies or you can buy or make your own. I have used old cartridges for a field expedient measure. Although I prefer throwing a handle on a decent measure to charge a case. Most are very accurate to a 1/10th of a grain.
You must have an accurate powder scales. Try to get one that is magnetically dampened so it stabilizes quickly. You can weigh every charge and I do this on some rifle loads. But mostly it is just a safety check to make sure my measure is metering correctly or when making powder adjustments. Electric scales can be expensive and some quirky.
After getting the powder sorted out and in the case then seat your bullet. Some dies come with different screw in seaters for round nose or flat nose bullets. You will need to measure the overall cartridge length (OAL) to insure at minimum it meets the standard guidelines. However some rounds and even some guns have an optimal OAL that they prefer for optimal function. For instance .45 ACP has an optimal understood OAL 1.26" for 230 grain FMJ. I have an old caliper/dial type that I only use when the battery goes out of my General English/metric LCD caliper measure. If you have a particular brand of ammo that works really well with your gun then copy the OAL from it and it may work as well as bullet weight.
Now the final step the crimp. Two common basic types are the taper (mostly semi-auto pistol) and rolled crimp (seen commonly in heavy recoiling magnum revolvers and used in typically cannlure bullets). I always double check the OAL after crimping initially until I'm satisfied it is good to go. Don't over crimp as it increases pressure and distorts the bullet body.
Other things that really you should get for reloading:
Reloading blocks
Bullet puller (kinetic types are cheap and used for multiple round types)
Trimmer for rifle brass and hand chamfering tool
Primer pocket swager if you have a lot of once fired military brass-the primer is crimped in my old brass.
Strainer for cleaning media to separate brass (Mine once was my wife's kitchen colander).
Storage bins for fired caliber segregated-I use coffee cans, cardboard boxes and have some nice cheap plastic storage bins I picked up.
For live rounds-some nice plastic cases are nice to have but for bulk I use old army ammo cans.
Spray on case lube for necked cartridges-the case blocks make this too easy, compared to old pad and roll lube.
Now not in keeping with the bottom line up front, SAFETY! Never compromise safety! Most blown up guns are the direct result of reloading errors.
Here are the more common causes of reloading Ka-Booms:
Double charge of powder
Wrong powder for data used
Wrong weight bullet for data
Compressing the non-compressible powder charge (too deeply seated bullet)
Excessively worn brass
Other things that can contribute:
High riding primers-primer not fully seated
Excessive crimping
There are others and a basic reloading manual should make you aware of them.
Don't reload 1K of ammo only to find it doesn't work well. Load 20-50 or so and fire it up checking for reliability, signs of excessive pressure/power and any other factors you consider important. Reloading can be a lot of fun but if you want to save money, don't do it. It just often leads to buying more stuff and shooting a heck of a lot more.
"I was one of those people who "learn by doing", I am hard headed and don't like to read instructions. I have been reloading for 35 or so years and the only part of the manual I looked at was the load data for what ever ammo I was loading at the time. A few months ago, I bought a new Lyman #49 and I actually opened it up and started reading it. Then I bought a new Speer manual and I read that one, too. What a world of information was in that first 1/3 of those books. I wish I had done the reading 35 years ago, I would probably be better at reloading if I had. Listen to these folks and read, READ the manual before you start!! If you can't read, get someone to read it to you (I am not implying, at all, that you can't read)."
Credit due to petro_58, Chuckdog and other ODT reloaders.
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