find you a 400 4 bolt block and have it stroked. You can go to 434 real easily. Have all the rotating balanced. It will make a world of difference in how it runs and how long it will last. A SBC will be much, much easier to put into that 83 to 88 body than a BBC
Chevy sent a regular Monte Carlo to Car Concepts for them to change over and put that greenhouse back glass in them. It wasn't done in a GM Plant. The 1987 editions were factory cars
I remember when I opened my first NAPA store back in 2001 we were pushing Right to Repair back then. We would get every shop, mechanic, or person who walked thru the door to sign a petition about Right to Repair, and send it to corporate. They would put them all together and present hundreds...
could be good, could be bad. It depends on how the runout is measured.
Is that runout on the mounted on the spindle of the car? If so, about the only way to get it any better is to machine it on the car. IIRC, most of the majors spec a .006 runout mounted, and about the only way to achieve...
I have a brake lathe that will do up to 16 inch rotors, with all the tooling. I quit turning rotors when I closed my NAPA stores back in 2009. I need to sell a bunch of shop equipment, if anyone is interested in that equipment
charge that battery up before you test it. It could just be discharged to much to crank it, and the alternator is bad and not charging it.
Charge it up until the voltage is around 12.4 VDC. The try to crank the tractor. If you can get it to crank, run the RPMs up to around 2000, and let...
yeah, when they did away with the Echlin line and went to Standard Ignition, I was really bummed. The Standard Ignition stuff was the "Top Line' for the competition, and a value line for us. Then all the brake rotors went to import instead of United, and when they did away with the Echlin CO2...
how tight did you run that bolt in, and could it have burred the shaft up? I usually just coat the end of the push rod with a heavy grease and let it hold the shaft up against the cam eccentric. If I found it necessary to use a bolt to hold it, I would just tighten it finger tight
sounds like you have an air leak somewhere, and the pump is not pulling fuel from the tank because of it. Put a gallon can under the truck, run a hose down in the gasoline in the can, and hook it directly to the fuel pump. If it will run that way, then start moving back down the system...