I just found this thread and am commenting so I can be sure to follow this one. Very nice work! Going to be an absolute beauty.
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1860 Army Blackhawk
- Thread starter Sharps40
- Start date
Na...no touche. Point is grab watcha want. Never stop learnin...never stop tryin new stuff. It may not be easy...time may seem scarse...but even if it takes years to do what is for others a quick job...thats what makes it worth it, you did it.
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Then ya should see the 3 screw Blackhawk Lightning we did last month with the spalted maple and full function brass buttoned ejector on a 3.5" long barrel with rust bluing. If it wernt mine Ol Doc Holliday would prolly have it fer hisself.
Wow...just lookin this over again this morning and some work to the grip frame and we're on final approach. Not that the grip frame work ain't significant but its looking mostly doable with patience and I'm feeling somewhat better about it.
Some careful measurements of the Story Steel ejector rod housing indicate a 1/4 part was sent in the 3/16 package. So, the lower hole is slightly under 1/4 which should allow me to use it on this old 3/16 bolt gun. I'll just make up a new bolt for the larger 1/4" housing I was sent. (I double checked package and my order sheet and I did in fact order the smaller size....but well make it work.)
Like the Lightning Blackhawk project I'll convert from ejector rod bolt to stud and nut. I think it saves fragile barrel threads over the long run.
First, I cut off a suitable section of round stock to make up a round headed nut. An old hand chambering reamer extension handle works fine. Its good steel.
Over at the drill press I bring the nut to final diameter for a snug fit in the ejector rod housing outer hole but no pass thru on the ejector rod inner hole...the nut will pinch the housing to the barrel. I also center drill and tap the new nut 8-40 to match the threads in the barrel.
The new nut is pressed into a tight fitting hole in a block of poplar and cross slotted for a screwdriver. This will let me drive the nut on and off the stud I will semipermanently install in the threaded hole in the barrel. The ejector rod housing will fit down over the stud and the new nut will pinch it into place. When disassembling, the stud will stay in the barrel and lessen the chance that the tender threads in that hole ever get boogered up.
After installing an appropriately length section of 8x40 threaded rod (old screw with the head cut off) I check the fit in the ejector rod. Later I'll permanently mount the threaded rod in the barrel. This is #2 threaded screw and not strong enough for the long haul. I'll install a gun grade 8x40 (much tougher) at final assembly/after the final polish and blue.
Like the Lightning Blackhawk project I'll convert from ejector rod bolt to stud and nut. I think it saves fragile barrel threads over the long run.
First, I cut off a suitable section of round stock to make up a round headed nut. An old hand chambering reamer extension handle works fine. Its good steel.
Over at the drill press I bring the nut to final diameter for a snug fit in the ejector rod housing outer hole but no pass thru on the ejector rod inner hole...the nut will pinch the housing to the barrel. I also center drill and tap the new nut 8-40 to match the threads in the barrel.
The new nut is pressed into a tight fitting hole in a block of poplar and cross slotted for a screwdriver. This will let me drive the nut on and off the stud I will semipermanently install in the threaded hole in the barrel. The ejector rod housing will fit down over the stud and the new nut will pinch it into place. When disassembling, the stud will stay in the barrel and lessen the chance that the tender threads in that hole ever get boogered up.
After installing an appropriately length section of 8x40 threaded rod (old screw with the head cut off) I check the fit in the ejector rod. Later I'll permanently mount the threaded rod in the barrel. This is #2 threaded screw and not strong enough for the long haul. I'll install a gun grade 8x40 (much tougher) at final assembly/after the final polish and blue.
Anybody can have a Story Birdshead ejector button. Dads gonna have a Ring or Bullseye ejector. Drill a bigger hole in it, taper the edges and blue it later.
The Story rod and Ejector is on and cinches down nicely with the new made nut. Free nut too. Free stuff good....payin fer stuff bad.
Little better symmetry out front....three holes now....not two holes and a lil tiny peep hole.
Yep, the Story Birds Head ejector button is big enough that you can almost drill it out and the ejector rod will slide thru the hole. But if ya really want to go that route for rod removal with out housing removal, ye'll have to reduce the diameter of the tip of the rod so ya can leave enough meat in the ring for strength.
There. Front is completely roughed in. Time to knock off ears and finish the top strap and loading gate. Then I'll attack the last work on the 1860 Army Colt grip and see if its doable. Its lookin like the drop dead date for this project is mid Oct to allow for sight in. Dad's comin down for the first of thee Oct and Nov hunting trips and I want this one ready for him to shoot and take along.
The Story rod and Ejector is on and cinches down nicely with the new made nut. Free nut too. Free stuff good....payin fer stuff bad.
Little better symmetry out front....three holes now....not two holes and a lil tiny peep hole.
Yep, the Story Birds Head ejector button is big enough that you can almost drill it out and the ejector rod will slide thru the hole. But if ya really want to go that route for rod removal with out housing removal, ye'll have to reduce the diameter of the tip of the rod so ya can leave enough meat in the ring for strength.
There. Front is completely roughed in. Time to knock off ears and finish the top strap and loading gate. Then I'll attack the last work on the 1860 Army Colt grip and see if its doable. Its lookin like the drop dead date for this project is mid Oct to allow for sight in. Dad's comin down for the first of thee Oct and Nov hunting trips and I want this one ready for him to shoot and take along.
Please. This is the part of the project (next post or three) where I don't WANT OR NEED your opinion on what constitutes a strong revolver top strap/frame/barrel/recoil shield/gate, etc. This will be fine. Numerous 357 and heaver guns have less in the way of both barrel steel, top strap, recoil shield, etc, etc, etc. That aside. Its not your gun. You won't be using it. The owner/users will be perfectly safe using this firearme forever and ever with SAAMI specification factory or equivalant handloads. So...watch and enjoy.
This is another great thread that only makes me more envious about my lack of "craftsmanship". Great stuff Sharps, this is why I hang around. I can shoot em better than most, but I have always envied those with your ability. Looking forward to what's next in this thread and others.
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HA! Vaqueros are thinner grooved and rounded! Smiths are just dayum thin and light! An theys all holdin up perfectionatly!
We's still way overbuilt lika tank cause the thinnest part is the cylinder and it takes it all and the barrel alone takes it all and so on and so on and yet....someone will panic an spew well chewed and previously puked and many times reeaten tripe vomit about doin a touch o customizin!
Cut it, file it, shape it, change it, blue it, make it yer own!
But remember...ya can't never sent it to ruger now...they'll pop a hemorrhoid fer sure and ye'll never see it again. Least ways, not the way ya sent it to em!
We's still way overbuilt lika tank cause the thinnest part is the cylinder and it takes it all and the barrel alone takes it all and so on and so on and yet....someone will panic an spew well chewed and previously puked and many times reeaten tripe vomit about doin a touch o customizin!
Cut it, file it, shape it, change it, blue it, make it yer own!
But remember...ya can't never sent it to ruger now...they'll pop a hemorrhoid fer sure and ye'll never see it again. Least ways, not the way ya sent it to em!
