1911 extractor

[Ben Worthy]

Okay, need some help with my SR1911.
When I shoot the brass ejects erratically. Anywhere from 2:00 to 6:00 which would be my forehead.
So from what I've read, it must be the extractor. I did the test on it and the casing stayed in place fine. So that would mean it's tuned fine.
What's the issue here? Would buying the bullet proof extractor from WC fix this or would it be a waste of $30?

 

[geezer]

The extractor doesn't determine the path of the brass, the ejector does. Ejector length, combined with slide speed and purchase on the weapon, will determine the flight path of ejected brass. The extractor can effect it but it mainly just extracts the fired brass from the chamber and gets it moving back until it hits the ejector. Quality loads should maintain about the same slide speed, but if you're shooting a variety, you may have a variety of brass flight paths...

 

[Ben Worthy]

The extractor doesn't determine the path of the brass, the ejector does. Ejector length, combined with slide speed and purchase on the weapon, will determine the flight path of ejected brass. The extractor can effect it but it mainly just extracts the fired brass from the chamber and gets it moving back until it hits the ejector. Quality loads should maintain about the same slide speed, but if you're shooting a variety, you may have a variety of brass flight paths...

So a new extended ejector should fix it?

 

[Ben Worthy]

Or try a slightly heavier recoil spring?

 

[geezer]

There are a lot of variables in brass flight path. I would go shoot it again, and concentrate on your grip, your stance, muzzle lift, etc. If the ejector is not moving(which it's not), something else is varying. Recoil spring and load power control slide speed, a loose purchase can effect it also. I'm saying, I wouldn't go changing anything on the gun just yet. With all other things constant, it should eject in near the same path every time, if not, all other things aren't constant. A longer or shorter ejector will change angle of brass path, but it should remain constant.

 

[geezer]

It could be recoil spring, but I wouldn't jump on the heavier spring band wagon just yet. Overspringing can wear heavily on a 1911....Often a one piece guide rod can somewhat smooth out erratic ejection. Have a friend shoot it while you are there, and watch him/her closely, you might see a pattern in their grip, grip change, and shooting tactics that change brass flight path.

 

[Ben Worthy]

I noticed it after my first time shooting it so I read up what could be the case. After reading I figured it must be my grip or something along those line. A couple trips later and a few hundred rounds more and it's still the same even when I focus more on keeping things constant.
The brass just isn't consistent with where it lands. Three shots may be 4:00, the next one 2:00, then the next hits my forehead.
I've used Winchester, federal, perfecta, and some federal hydra shoks.
It's all inconsistent.
Right now I have the factory 18# recoil spring but one forum I read suggested to try a 20#

 

[Allsmiles]

Don't change anything until you get about 500 rounds down range. 1911's are not like poly guns and have to break in. My Kimber bounced more than a couple of casing off my forehead while it was breaking in. Is this a commander sized gun by chance? Also, make sure you are running the gun lubed correctly. 1911 are like AR's and like lube.

 

[Boz1911]

Replacing the ejector is not an easy task to do correctly. If things don't change after the above tips I would think about changing the shape of the ejector tip before replacing it.

 

[jglenn]

there's a lot more to the 1911 extractor than just it's tension..

erratic ejection could be several things.

Loose ejector --- make sure your ejector is solid in the frame with the slide off...some makers are gluing in the ejector these days(sigh)

recoil spring binding --- I would suggest a 16 lb recoil spring for a std Government length model. no reason for anything heavier or longer. you also don't need any buffer, period.

extractor hook mis-shaped --- the bottom of the extractor hook needs to be tapered a bit ( see Wilson extractor tuning article on the web).. Also the length of the extractor more often than not is too long causing the hook to hit the case.. EGW HS extractor and their basic extractor are the shortest you can find.. the hook should not hit the shoulder of the case. it should only grab the rim... also the amount of deflection ( deflection is the amount of distance the hook is moved when the rim slides into position.) can cause issues with rims of varying size..

personally I'd replace the extractor if the ejector is not loose.. factory tuning amounts to checking tension at best. more issues are resolved by proper installation of the extractor in a 1911 than most any other part