67 CJ5 electrical issues

[Reloadhby]

I have a 67 cj5 with electrical issues.

I don't seem to have any power for anything, not lights, not a roll over , not anything,

It has the original wiring.

Apparently no fuses either

Any recommendations for spots to look or just look and rewire the whole thing.

I was looking at the EX wire stuff out of Florida

New batter, starter, coil. was a running jeep a few years ago.

 

[joel2000]

I have a 67 cj5 with electrical issues.

I don't seem to have any power for anything, not lights, not a roll over , not anything,

It has the original wiring.

Apparently no fuses either

Any recommendations for spots to look or just look and rewire the whole thing.

I was looking at the EX wire stuff out of Florida

New batter, starter, coil. was a running jeep a few years ago.

Probably the fuse box… hid some where.
Usually on the firewall just left of the clutch pedal

 

[cskiles]

IMHO -
Not sure of your skill level with automotive/DC electrical systems but the wiring on a jeep that old is going to be pretty basic - I bet you could install it with patience if you take your time. If you decide to go the route of troubleshooting, I would look at the grounding - on older model cars the grounding is typically done through straps and one side of each load is grounded through the body (e.g., turn signal lights are grounded through the screw tat holds the fixture to the body) rather than an individual wire running to each load. I am not certain if Jeeps are like this but in the late 60's trucks like DODGE used this type of grounding. If everything on the vehicle is dead, and the battery is hot, then grounding would be my first place to look.

 

[keith089]

I re wired my cj5 in a night with a painless set up. Damn dummy proof

 

[greg vess]

IMHO -
Not sure of your skill level with automotive/DC electrical systems but the wiring on a jeep that old is going to be pretty basic - I bet you could install it with patience if you take your time. If you decide to go the route of troubleshooting, I would look at the grounding - on older model cars the grounding is typically done through straps and one side of each load is grounded through the body.

Agreed!

 

[Kahrnut]

Remove the battery, make sure it is fully charged, and take it to O'Reilly Auto Parts, etc. They can load test it. I had a battery that the plates separated internally. Read voltage ⚡️, but wouldn't start the car. Also check all the battery terminals and ground connections for corrosion, loose connections, and clean. Check for fusible links (some look like a wire).

 

[greg vess]

Remove the battery, make sure it is fully charged, and take it to O'Reilly Auto Parts, etc. They can load test it. I had a battery that the plates separated internally. Read voltage ⚡️, but wouldn't start the car. Also check all the battery terminals and ground connections for corrosion, loose connections, and clean. Check for fusible links (some look like a wire).

That doesn't always work perfectly. From first-hand experience the battery can test good and can take and pass a low test but it can arc on the inside of the battery. Same thing as a short or bad ground. I would replace the battery all together. If you're trying to get it back to run reliable I would get a new battery, put a new ground strap on it. Cap plug, wires, and rotors all that stuff. Make sure to sand or grind off the area where the ground strap is to get a good clean connection.

 

[41mag]

Make sure the body is grounded to the battery real well. Same for any lights that may not be attached to the body securely. You got to have a good grounding circuit or all the power leads won’t make a bit of difference.
Also some of the oldest vehicles may have something other than a standard 12v system.
It may do you better service to just run new power and ground circuits to your most used lighting and the ignition system. The older and more corroded cables and wires can get the more resistance they will have, the harder it will be to run them and keep good power running through them.
Also consider the switches and actual lighting. They may possibly need replacement/updating as well. Good luck !!

 

[fslc94]

Painless kit and forget about it! 💯

 

[greg vess]

Make sure the body is grounded to the battery real well. Same for any lights that may not be attached to the body securely. You got to have a good grounding circuit or all the power leads won’t make a bit of difference.
Also some of the oldest vehicles may have something other than a standard 12v system.
It may do you better service to just run new power and ground circuits to your most used lighting and the ignition system. The older and more corroded cables and wires can get the more resistance they will have, the harder it will be to run them and keep good power running through them.
Also consider the switches and actual lighting. They may possibly need replacement/updating as well. Good luck !!

Also the motor ground strap. Clean it sand off the leads to the motor and maybe add a another ground souce as well. I have seen older vehicles get rusty between where the body panels and frames get rusted over and can cause ground issues even when the engine is directly grounded to the frame but the rust can get down in areas you can't see and prevent the proper metal contact due to corrosion. So try hooking the ground to different parts of the body to make sure.

I had a old tractor pulled reel unit on the golf course that the superintendent's and other old men said would never run again. They cleaned the ground strap off and made sure it had proper metal contact but that pull behind was so rusted at the body connections that it wasn't allowing a good ground all over the complete frame. Too many rusted areas where the metal was connected and it would only get a proper ground on some but not all of the metal frame. Just a suggestion on what I have encountered in older machines. What tends to happen is you clean the connections and say it's good but in fact it's not so maybe get longer ground straps and try in different areas just to make sure.