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Chainsaw Mill

78Bronco

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So, I’m out to make lemonade from lemons here gang…and I’d like your input. Hurricane Matthew left me with 20+ large oaks on the ground. By large I mean 15”-34” diameter trunks at the base with most in the +/-18” range. I do have a wood burning insert in my house that we use, but one guy can only cut & store so much firewood wood. The 4 trees that fell in my yard will prob give us enough firewood for the next 2 years and they are not included in the 20+ estimate above. My wife and I both like wood working projects and I’ve been considering having lots of these red/white oaks cut into boards for future projects. One thing that is definitely on the list is countertops for my kitchen! I have always wanted open face countertops and this would be the perfect way to get them…with wood off my own place.

Now, the how do we get there from here part! A portable sawmill would be really cool and provide some really nice square boards, but leaves a few challenges on the table with cost being the #1 factor. I can’t fine any used ones or ones for rent and don’t have $2-5K just sitting around to buy one for this limited amount of work. On top of that, a good number of these trees are in the forest and getting them out to cut and/or getting something to them to load them onto a portable sawmill would be waaay more work than cutting up the boards themselves. That leads me to the chainsaw mills. Granberg seems to have a good name and they make a few different kinds for different applications. Has anyone had any experience with them, and more specifically the G777 model? If so, how did it work? How rough of a cut and I looking at getting doing something like this with a ripping chain? I like that this gives me the opportunity to cut boards larger than my 20” bar by going down one side and back up the other and I can do it right where the tree is at and just take the boards out by hand, a few at the time. My concern with it is that since it only connects to the side of the bar closest to the motor, the other end of the bar would be able to flex in relationship to the mill frame giving me uneven board widths as I go and compounding the situation the deeper into the logs I cut. I have looked at their MKIII that connects to both ends of the bar and looked at buying a 28” bar and ripping chain from my Husqvarna 365. With that setup I could cut most of what I have, but that would leave me with a few big trees that I couldn’t cut. Again, not sure how smooth of a cut to expect with a setup like this. I’m guessing that once I cut the boards I would then have to find someone that could dry them for me? (Guess that’s more of a question than a statement since this is all new to me) The trees are not going anywhere so I don’t have to make a decision today, but I’m the kind of person that when I get my mind going on something like this it usually consumes me till I make a move to drop the idea and move on. Any assistance/guidance you could give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your time.
 
A few other things to think about, since I headed down this road years ago myself and then turned back.....

None of the boards can be over 12" wide or you can't get them into a run of the mill planer, so everything is either going to be rough cut or be sent somewhere to be planed.

None of the wood is really usable as lumber until it is dried properly. I did find some places that for a reasonable fee would allow you to stack and dry your wood in their warehouse. Many of them have a sawmill on sight and will cut your logs at a reasonable fee. Getting them there then becomes the problem and best I recall it took like 6 months to dry properly...???

I really wanted to go down this road myself one time, but ran into one thing after another and finally gave up.
On the other hand you have a lot more wood to harvest and that really would make a difference to me.

If you have a use for rough cut lumber a mill will work fine, I've seen them in action and was really impressed.
I haven't seen anyone cut from both sides, though I know it is done.
So I guess like anything, the right tools for the job are needed to get the desired results.

I'm sure one of the guys I worked through my situation with is a member here, I don't recall his name, but I'll look for a while in my PM"s and see if I can find him for you.

Good Luck!
 
Thanks so much for the input biker_bill biker_bill , that's just the kind of info I was hoping to get. Never thought about the standard size of a planer...good stuff to know and think about. I need to look and see if there is anything special about the warehouse to dry it in. I have access to a few old barns that might do the trick of there isn't anything fancy going on there other than keeping it out the weather.

Thanks again buddy, your input is greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks so much for the input biker_bill biker_bill , that's just the kind of info I was hoping to get. Never thought about the standard size of a planer...good stuff to know and think about. I need to look and see if there is anything special about the warehouse to dry it in. I have access to a few old barns that might do the trick of there isn't anything fancy going on there other than keeping it out the weather.

Thanks again buddy, your input is greatly appreciated.

Best I recall the two drying warehouses (One in Gainesville and one in Blue Ridge) are kept at a certain humidity and temperature. And I'm sorry I can't find that PM I was looking for.
 
I too have been researching this. Here's a couple of thoughts that might can help you.

1) Look on Craigslist for portable sawmills. Lots of time other folks already have them and will come onsite and cut yours up using their mill for just a labor charge. It probably won't be cheap but it will probably be cheaper than buying the stuff you're talking about and dealing with the issues. (The other option of course is to buy a new mill, use it, then resell it and consider the loss as a "rental fee" but you'd already said that wasn't a good for you)

2) yes it has to be dried. If you're not in a hurry you can do it yourself. If you have a place to keep it out of the rain you can just stick it (the little separators between boards) and let it sit. I've heard 1-2 years if it's just outside. The 6 month figure is only true if it's a climate controlled building. My personal belief is you'll get less warpage by allowing it to dry slower naturally but I don't have any experience to back it up other than anecdotes passed down from my grandfather who did this for years.

3) If you just need rough cut lumber you're now done. If you want finished boards you need planing. If you're at this point it seems to me you'd probably be better off to have shipped the wood off to somewhere else to process (at least that's what I keep reading). I haven't found any home solutions for large size planing. But then I haven't looked too hard either because I'm still on step #1.
 
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