Eliminating Revolver Cylinder Endshake

[Sharps40]

A very old S&W Mod 36. A Flat Latch. I still have the original numbers matching walnut grips, long ago sanded smooth and varnished for snag free concealment by the original LE owner.

A fine shooter with most of its original finish....just a touch of endshake in the cylinder. An easy remedy and this handgun will be as tight as new in 15 minutes.

The 10 thousands gauge is a very tight interference fit. The 9 thousands gauge just barely slips between cylinder and barrel with the cylinder held fully rearward. There is visible fore and aft shake in the cylinder along the yoke axle with the gauge removed. Too nice a gun to allow it to continute be battered with each shot.

Stainless steel shims, 2 thousands thick. They come in packs of 10 and I should only need one. So, since they are long lasting and I only need one....guess I'll have to find several more S&W revolvers to tighten up.....

Remove the yoke and cylinder from the frame.

Disassemble the extractor mechanism from the cylinder. On the J frame Smith, the threads are reversed....Righty Loosie, Lefty Tighty gets it apart.

 

[Sharps40]

A single endshake bearing is inserted. It fits in the bottom of the cylinder, under the large spring, surrounding the extractor shaft and bearing against the face of the yoke axle.

Install the extractor only into the stripped cylinder. Drop on a single endshake bearing.

Press the endshake bearing fully home with the yoke axle.

Reassamble the springs and extractor rods to the cylinder and test fit in the revolver. At this time, a 2 thousands shim makes it impossible to insert the 9 thousands gauge. The revolver function appears perfect with no drag and no endshake...so it appears only one shim is needed and no trimming of the axle is needed to allow for insertion of a full 2 thousands thick bearing.

A final check, 7 thousands is now a slightly snug fit. I won't add any more shims. Endshake is gone and the gun functions without snagging or hitching. If in 30 years it loosens up again, 2 stacked shims can be added but I doubt I'll ever have to get in there again! That's it. Done, this one is ready to go back to full duty service.

 

[semi-pro]

nice

 

[JWC]

Great post! Thank you for taking the time to share this with everyone. It should be required reading for revolvers nuts!

 

[Sharps40]

Costs more ta ship the dayum shims in than it costs for one shim! But, an easy fix and puts the gun back in good sorts for shooting....less battering, more accurate lock up, etc. Should be fine for about another many years and magillions of rounds!

 

[RamRoddoc]

Thanks for the write up Sharps40. I'm still learning the ins and outs of revolvers.

 

[Sharps40]

Yeah, folks get all Winkensnorfened worryin bout stretchin out a big giant piece of metal like the frame cause of too many warnings about +P that ain't +P no more (like it was when it was first introduced) and they forget that most of the battering/mechanical wear will occur, +P or not, (and thereby develop the real looseness) which is on the smallest lightest part in the connecting pieces....that lil thin and tiny interface of a yoke to the inside bottom of the cylinder.......or that lil tiny bearing surface tween the ratchet and the recoil shield........frames don't stretch from normal use.....but the resta the lil fine parts will wear down a bit!

 

[7pt62THOR]

Just might be the fix I need for one of mine! Thanks brother.