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Factory Five 33 Hot Rod

Not trying to insult your intellegence here cause it sounds like you know what you are doing, since you were talking about doing a short block build. So please dont take any of this as insulting just makeing sure you alreayd know this and probably do, but just in case. That "Compcam on the radical side" you mentioned might be a mistake with the parts you mentioned.

Now dont get me wrong, I love Comp, thats what I put in both of my 73 Novas and what I have in my LS1 SS Camaro right now. Its a convertible auto though, so I went with a mild 269HR bumpstick (which I installed myself) then added a little more stall to the T/C, slight lope but didnt lose any torque and dyno results were +38HP. Win/Win! But back to yours, if it has too much lift can create several issues, overly choppy idle/loading up and shake your teeth out(typically undesireable) besides killing your torque and drivability until after 2000.

Then theres valve float, if the springs arent big enough when you twist her up. I think that kit comes with springs too, if I remember correctly, but still, the cam selection is the most significant choice in any build. Settling on one thats really bigger than what you want or your cars application and components can ruin a build until its swapped out. Been there done that 25 years ago. Comp has a tech line too that can help, give them a call.

Good luck brother.
 
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Thanks for the info. I've checked the springs already, both with Comp cams and AFR. Good to go there, even though this engine will not really see super high revs, 6000 to 6500 absolute max. The idle should be rough, which is what I want, both for power and sound. I miss the sound of a radical cam at idle. Also I'll be running a 5 speed manual transmission and lastly this car will only weigh 22-2300 lbs. I have a 750 cfm carb coming to keep the mid-range torque in line. I do have a concern with compression. I need to make a least 10-1. I'll calculate that when I get everything back from the machine shop. Should be able to fine tune with head gasket choice. This is a 69 block which has a .020 shorter deck height than the later blocks so head gasket choice will be critical. Back in the old days I ran a Comp cams roller in my small block Chevy powered Super Gas car with almost .750 inch of lift, now that was a cam!! Looked like the rocker arm would never stop moving when you adjusted the valves.
 
It's the line "registered after 12/31/98" that concerns me.
They used to register a kit/replica car as the model year that it resembled Or was modeled after. So yours would have been registered as a 1933 ford replica



The state now considers a kit car to be the model year that it was assembled

They are going to consider yours as a 2014 if that's when you finish it
And there no way to make it pass 2014 or 2015 emissions

If you lived outside the emission test area that wouldn't be an issue

But After you spend a couple days banging your head against the brick wall at the DMV. That 35 ford with a clear title and VIN for $2000 will seem like money well spent

been there. Done that.
 
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They used to register a kit/replica car as the model year that it resembled Or was modeled after. So yours would have been registered as a 1933 ford replica



The state now considers a kit car to be the model year that it was assembled

They are going to consider yours as a 2014 if that's when you finish it
And there no way to make it pass 2014 or 2015 emissions

If you lived outside the emission test area that wouldn't be an issue

But After you spend a couple days banging your head against the brick wall at the DMV. That 35 ford with a clear title and VIN for $2000 will seem like money well spent

been there. Done that.
Haven't ruled that out at all. By the time the car is through though I may qualify by my (or my wife's) age and miles driven for an exemption.
 
Sweet! Good company to deal with. I worked with a guy that bought a Factory 5 Cobra and it was just like factory specs. Good luck with the build!
 
I built a 23 Ford T Bucket but used an old donor frame from a T built in the 60's and was able to use that Vin to get registered as a 1923 Ford Model T. Makes it easy since I don't have to worry about mirrors, windshield wipers, seat belts (I have and use them) or mufflers or emissions. It's a blast to drive and a blast to show. Only bad thing is the seat padding is thin and the ride not all that smooth so I can drive about an hour max before I have to climb out like a snake slithering out (no door cutouts either, just step over the side to get in, step back over to get out or in my case slide out moaning and groaning.
 
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