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How hard is it to install a water heater?

If you decide to sweat the fittings do not use a propane torch. Spend a couple of more dollars and get a Mapp Gas Torch. Will save lots of time and hassle.
I have both, and for a small job like a hot water heater install, you would see little difference. If you are buying a kit though, the MAPP would be the way to go, if you already have propane, you will be just fine as well.
 
Gas or Electric? By the price I'm guessing electric. If you are gonna use a sharkbite connector, make damn sure you cut it clean, square, and deburr. Open the hot side on a faucet closest to the heater, and turn the water back on. Once it is running only water(not spittin' air), close the valve and then turn the power back on.

It is gas.
 
Also, to meet code, since 2001, you will need an expansion tank (may only matter if you go to re-sell the house, may come up in an inspection). Someone in the industry could verify this 100%, but I am sure it is still code.

I would personally solder the pipes. You can get the BernzOmatic kit for pretty cheap and will have enough supplies in the kit to install a water heater. Cutting copper pipe and sleeving in a new water heater is not that hard. Just make sure all the water is out of the lines so you can get good heat into the copper to accept the solder ALL THE WAY AROUND.

Yes, I just put on an expansion tank last year.
 
I'm a big fan of SharkBites. They work exceptionally well, if you have an aversion to soldering. And as someone said earlier just open your faucets to expel the air in the lines.

The hardest part about installing a water heater is moving the old one out of the house and disposing of it. They fill with sediment and are extremely bulky and weighty. You're going to need help.
 
A lot of good info here. I've no experience with sharkbites as, I don't think they were allowed back home so, what little input I think may need to be added will be in regards to sweating the pipe. This is all layman, and assumes limited experience. However, it also assumes you know how to sweat pipe. And of course, assumes your house is plumbed in copper.

Is this multi story home? Are their ball valves placed above the water hear connections? I've always practiced in placing valves when possible to prevent standing water from flowing back or following gravity. If not, you'll then want to solder your valves onto the new pipe segments on the water heater side. That way you'll not be dealing a bunch of connections that will be bothered by water. You or your future buyer will thank you for when it it's time for the future installation.

When it comes time sweating your final connections you'll want to open your hot side faucets and get as much water out of the pipes as possible. This may take a while as may require heating the pipe a bit. As the pipe heats up, it will draw nearby standing water. The last thing you'll want is water or steam appearing as you solder.

Maybe this is all TMI. If you're lucky, there will be valves in place which will save you some trouble. In that case, you can disregard most of what I've written.
 
I picked up a brand new water heater at Home Depot (50 gallon) for $159. These were last years models, and for some reason they had at least 3 at this price. It was stooopid cheap so I couldn't resist. My home was new in 2001 when I moved in, and have the same water heater. So I guess I am about due.

Some questions for you plumbers or people that know how to do this:

1- Do Shark Bite connections make it a world easier vs sweating pipe joints?

I got to do a thorough research project on this subject when some urban youth decided they had nothing better to do than steal $50 worth of copper plumbing from my late mother's house, and they didn't even get to steal it because a neighbor caught them in the act, and they dropped it all.

ALL that said, the answer to your question is "OH HELL YEAH" I can sweat and wipe a joint with the best of them, but after trying Shark Bites, ain't no way I'd go old school. Don't even stop and think about this. Me and a Rent-A-Mex replaced all the plumbing in about 2 hours. PEX and a sharp knife and some shark bites.

FWIW, this was in the Peoples Republic of Dekalb, and was permitted job, and Shark Bites met all code requirements. I've retired my tubing cutter, and 60.40 solder.


2- How do I insure there is no air in my pipes after installing?

Run the inside spigots until there is no air. If you don't want to do them all, do the ones further from the hot water heaters. Upstairs if applicable.




3- What is the best way to set up on the stand?

Any words of advice or links to good sites on how to install a basic water heater?

So it goes.
 
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