Maverick 88 shotgun rusting...what is cheapest solution?

[markj]

If the rust isn't pitted, use 0000 steel wool saturated with a good gun oil. Don't scrub in one spot, do long areas all in one motion with a light pressure. The idea is to let the steel wool and oil break down the rust without removing the Bluing. Don't store any gun in a soft gun case, they absorb moisture and will rust a gun right quick. You can paint it if you like, but to a lot of people it devalues the gun. Putting paint on a rusted gun is just covering up stuff. If you intend to keep the gun, it doesn't matter. If you are trying to make it look good to sell, you might find someone to buy it with a cheap paint job if the price is right but would be better off trying to remove the rust without destroying the bluing.

This is very good advice. If the gun is blued (not sure about a Maverick) This is the best way to remove light rust. After this treatment ($3 for 0000 steel wool) if the blue is gone in spots, you could try some cold blue ($6). To me, this would be best. Sanding and Krylon will work, and even look good, but it will be pretty fragile finish.

X2 on NOT storing guns in soft cases!! Have seen blued guns nearly destroyed from spending 6 months in a soft case in a closet!!

 

[Gacowboy]

This is very good advice. If the gun is blued (not sure about a Maverick) This is the best way to remove light rust. After this treatment ($3 for 0000 steel wool) if the blue is gone in spots, you could try some cold blue ($6). To me, this would be best. Sanding and Krylon will work, and even look good, but it will be pretty fragile finish.

X2 on NOT storing guns in soft cases!! Have seen blued guns nearly destroyed from spending 6 months in a soft case in a closet!!

Really about the soft cases ? i never knew that. even hand guns ?

 

[justshootum]

Check out my last post I just camouflaged a marlin for the same reason, but I did the steel wool trick first and used rust oleum paint

Funny...I was just looking around and saw your post. Nice work. Any issue with paint scratching/chipping?

 

[markj]

Yeah. A buddy had a BEAUTIFUL Dan Wesson .44 with a deep blue finish. I saw that gun when he got it. About 6 months later he pulled it out of the soft case where it had been sitting on a shelf in a closet and the finish was badly pitted!! very sad. We realised right away that the case had retained moisture in the air and reaked havock on the steel!!

 

[Cruisers460]

Really about the soft cases ? i never knew that. even hand guns ?

i've got a soft side case that my son gave me. He found it in a house that he was working on. Even after washing it has a perfect rust print of a 1911 in the cloth.

 

[justshootum]

If the rust isn't pitted, use 0000 steel wool saturated with a good gun oil. Don't scrub in one spot, do long areas all in one motion with a light pressure. The idea is to let the steel wool and oil break down the rust without removing the Bluing. Don't store any gun in a soft gun case, they absorb moisture and will rust a gun right quick. You can paint it if you like, but to a lot of people it devalues the gun. Putting paint on a rusted gun is just covering up stuff. If you intend to keep the gun, it doesn't matter. If you are trying to make it look good to sell, you might find someone to buy it with a cheap paint job if the price is right but would be better off trying to remove the rust without destroying the bluing.

Thanks. No case for the gun. Either sits in corner or under bed. This was my pawn shop "special" find. Not really concerned about resale value since I only use the gun for wasting shotshells... Main purpose of gun is to destroy wayward empty zombiefied adult beverage containers and other miscellaneous rampid rift-raft that needs to be destroyed. Rust is not pitted so I may try this solution and follow up with any cold blue that may be needed.

 

[justshootum]

Thanks to all for your knowledge. I like the steel wool/oil idea since I have both in my "gun shop".... and I did say cheap. However, I am kind of interested in a project - so the paint/coating process sounds like a fun challenge. I had to "engineer" the forearm since the factory rivets that attach the forearm to the action arms broke. First I used screws, which broke after roughly 100 rounds so I had to continuously replace them. I discovered some rivet buttons (guess that what they are - looks like a rivet, but screws together) and drilled out the action arms to accommodate the larger screws. Will try several hundred rounds this weekend and see how it holds up. Keep the suggestions coming.

 

[RiverBend]

Most surface rust can be scrapped off using a flattened then rounded to fit barrel profile, just ude flattened end to scrap off rust and the brass won't remove any existing Blueing then jusy cold blue & keep oiled.