I think he is talking about the barrel nut
Need help removing a stubborn Castle Nut on my AR
- Thread starter rlt3241963
- Start date
I think he is talking about the barrel nut
I have everything you would need, but my garage is a total mess due to some upgrading I am in the beginnings of and I am quite a drive away. But you are welcome to swing by Saturday evening if that works for you.
Tried a cheater yet? Do you have a nut wrench that will allow use of a breaker bar or cheater?
I’m not real close, but looks like I’m closer than anyone else is to you. I do have anything that I believe you would need including a good wrench and upper support for vise. Your welcome to come by if you would like and use my stuff. PM me or call 404-561-7523. If you call and I don’t answer please leave a message. I don’t always answer unknown numbers.
Thanks, Ronnie
Thanks, Ronnie
Thanks, but I got someone already that is going to do it. He's an Armorer and has all the tools and parts if need to take care of the drive.
Great, hope you get it all worked out.
First problem... if a castle nut is involved in upgrading a rail/handguard... something is fishy. My guess, as others have speculated, is that this is a barrel nut that was not properly greased (Aeroshell 33MS or now 64) or, even worse, someone added a thread locker such as LocTite.
If you are heating it, you are making it worse unless you are heating it just to break/melt the potential thread locker.
The coefficient of linear (thermal) expansion of aluminum (your receiver threads) is over twice that of the steel barrel. That means that heat will more quickly expand the receiver threads before the barrel nut threads, tightening/engaging the two even more. Luckily, the converse is true in freezing it. If you place the upper in the freezer for several hours or overnight, then put it in a quality vise as soon as it comes out, and use a quality barrel nut removal tool, you should be able to remove the nut. Been there, done that, and freezing was my answer.
I have used heat in instances like removing a stuck gas block (threaded/set screw style, not pinned) where the thread locker needed to be melted first.
If you are heating it, you are making it worse unless you are heating it just to break/melt the potential thread locker.
The coefficient of linear (thermal) expansion of aluminum (your receiver threads) is over twice that of the steel barrel. That means that heat will more quickly expand the receiver threads before the barrel nut threads, tightening/engaging the two even more. Luckily, the converse is true in freezing it. If you place the upper in the freezer for several hours or overnight, then put it in a quality vise as soon as it comes out, and use a quality barrel nut removal tool, you should be able to remove the nut. Been there, done that, and freezing was my answer.
I have used heat in instances like removing a stuck gas block (threaded/set screw style, not pinned) where the thread locker needed to be melted first.
