Need some advice, new 1911 owner getting bit

[AirOpsMgr]

Hey all, looking for some advice as I'm new to 1911's

I traded for a new RIA GI on here a few weeks back to get me started in the 1911 arena. I finally had time to take it to the range today and after running about 100 rounds through it, the only complaint I have is getting bit by the hammer.

I tried a few different grip techniques, but most resulted with getting bit slightly.

From doing some research, I see that I can add a Wilson Combat "Drop-in high-ride" beaver tail grip safety (item # 2-WC429BG), which will also require the Wilson hammer (item # 2-WC455B); all for around $60.00 (can also add the Wilson match trigger for another $32 while I'm at it).

So, the question is, are these parts really "drop in", or will I still need some smithing to get them to fit properly?

Also, although I shoot ok with the stock GI sights, how much trouble is it to replace them with 3-dot GI sights? Should I invest in the sight tool, or just buy the sights and take it to a smith? (I'm not looking to have it milled for Novaks if I can just replace with better GIs)

Thanks for your help!!
Best regards,

 

[rOmiLaYu]

Unfortunately (or fortunately - depending on your perspective, I suppose) there's not much of anything that is "drop-in" on a 1911. Will the Wilson combat parts fit as direct replacements? Probably....will they match up smooth and tight without any stoning? Maybe...but less likely. Be prepared to "fit" the parts...or if you're not comfortable with that, have someone do it who is.

As to the sights, unless you plan on working on a lot of pistols, I wouldn't buy a sight pusher....cheaper to have someone do it.

 

[AirOpsMgr]

Unfortunately (or fortunately - depending on your perspective, I suppose) there's not much of anything that is "drop-in" on a 1911. Will the Wilson combat parts fit as direct replacements? Probably....will they match up smooth and tight without any stoning? Maybe...but less likely. Be prepared to "fit" the parts...or if you're not comfortable with that, have someone do it who is.

As to the sights, unless you plan on working on a lot of pistols, I wouldn't buy a sight pusher....cheaper to have someone do it.

That's kinda what I was thinking; I do want to start getting into filing and fitting, but figured I would check to see if anyone else had experiences with these parts in the RIA line

As for sights, I already have a drift tool, just don't have a staking tool for the front.

 

[RamRoddoc]

That's kinda what I was thinking; I do want to start getting into filing and fitting, but figured I would check to see if anyone else had experiences with these parts in the RIA line

As for sights, I already have a drift tool, just don't have a staking tool for the front.

If you already have the rear drifting tool, why not get the staking tool? Brownells has them for $50 and you keep the tool. Pay to have staked cost?

If you get one you could loan it out to other ODT members close to you. So you live in McDonnough.

Yeah even the drop in parts need a bit of metal removal here and there. A full beaver tail looks just so good on a 1911 and prevents that nasty hammer bite. The hammer expect to be fitted by a competent Smith or someone who knows what they are doing.

http://www.fosterind.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=54&Itemid=60
$16.01 Carbon Steel
$10 Stainless
$10 Aluminum
$15.30 Commander Hammer

The grip safeties are not polished up but when you fit them you will need to refinish them anyways. The hammer is in the white. You can make your own Park solution out of alkaline batteries and I think navel jelly. Link: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_5_49/70569_.html

 

[Howie]

Just like RamRoddc said....I have yet to have a single drop in part fit just right.......especially in the RIA's.....It's all do-able though...a little patience and a working knowledge of the gun helps.

 

[AirOpsMgr]

If you already have the rear drifting tool, why not get the staking tool? Brownells has them for $50 and you keep the tool. Pay to have staked cost?

If you get one you could loan it out to other ODT members close to you. So you live in McDonnough.

Yeah even the drop in parts need a bit of metal removal here and there. A full beaver tail looks just so good on a 1911 and prevents that nasty hammer bite. The hammer expect to be fitted by a competent Smith or someone who knows what they are doing

I might get a stake tool, it just looked like it would be more difficult than removing Glock staked sights - will need to ponder that more.....

As for the hammer, it was claimed to be a "drop in" as well, and after watching a few videos online, both appeared to be within my abilities..... Guess there is no harm trying it myself and if I can't handle it, take it to a smith

I wanted to start with a lower end 1911 so I could start learning this stuff, just don't want to FUBAR anything

On a side note, are there any 1911 "smithing" tools / kits you guys would recommend as I get started?

Thnx!

 

[77REBELBOWTIE]

I had a little blood on the hammer of my RIA today after a couple hundred rounds. Already thinking about changing some parts. My sights are hosting about 6" low at 30'. This will be upgraded as well. Planning a budget build since this is my beater carry piece.

 

[RamRoddoc]

A good set of files
A decent sight pusher and staker
A glass top/flat surface
400, 600, 800 and 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper
A magnifing head set (4X)
A dry marker
A small vice
A candle (for soot)
A propane torch
A few brass punches (cut your own from rod-lowes)
Small hammer
A dremel tool (within reason)
Perhaps a plunger tube staker

 

[AirOpsMgr]

A good set of files
A decent sight pusher and staker
A glass top/flat surface
400, 600, 800 and 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper
A magnifing head set (4X)
A dry marker
A small vice
A candle (for soot)
A propane torch
A few brass punches (cut your own from rod-lowes)
Small hammer
A dremel tool (within reason)
Perhaps a plunger tube staker

Any particular brand of files, or are they all similar?
Thnx!

 

[RamRoddoc]

Any particular brand of files, or are they all similar?
Thnx!

No they are not all the same! You want hardend tool steel. I have picked up what I needed over the years and piece mealed mine together.

A decent set of needle files is a good start. I saw these on Brownells http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5748/Style_1001=File+Sets/Product/PROFESSIONAL-GUNSMITH-NEEDLE-FILE-SET#skugrid

This larger set I saw on Midway; http://www.midwayusa.com/product/714003/nicholson-8-piece-machinist-file-set

This needle set was on Midway too with more files but higher price. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/177450/nicholson-12-piece-swiss-cut-2-needle-file-set

At least one other person thought they were good. You could save some coin by buying just what you need when you need it but you will probably spend more over the years.

Also I forgot a decent set of calipers and a micrometer. A drill press is really nice to have. The cheaper table top drill presses are fine. A cheap 1911 barrel wrench can be had for a few bucks and beats duct taped vice grips or channel locks.

A decent work table/area is priceless. Good separate lighting is a must. I picked up cheap magnet strips and keep all my often used tools there. I would/will add some type of 3 sided wild spring stoppers. Too many times I had a spring make a dash to freedom and spent the better part of an hour hunting it down and some end up MIA. If I even suspect one will make a break for it, I use a plastic bag and do the work inside it. It gives me pleasure when one bounces off the bag (I use white plastic shopping) and I see it staring back at me in failure.

If you really get into this a good table top sand blast cabinet can be had for around $100. A compressor, filter and hoses make blasting....a blast. I posted a thread on sand blasting and there are minimum air flow requirements. Brian Ott always post good stuff on tools suggestions (with other stuff) and I would reap his experience when he is able to offer it.