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Patina

Kyzrsoze

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The Hen that laid the Golden Legos
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I tried my hand at aging/forced patina a while back, and I finally got around to taking some pics. I used a Blind Horse Brumby as my guinea pig, and rust bluing solution to create the effect. I did a light coating over the entire blade as it should provide some corrosion resistance, and created darker areas for effect.

DSCF0540.JPG
 
Looks nice..can you tell me a little about the process? Right now I have a beater Esee that I am etching the logos in, then planning on stripping and doing something like this..

share any tips you have as well as additional pics of the process….anything is greatly appreciated…
 
As you probably know, there are a lot of different chemicals people use to cause patina. I used a rust bluing solution because 1) I already had some, and 2) It causes a rapid and consistent chemical reaction. This is the solution I use:

www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/pilkington-classic-american-rust-blue-prod9815.aspx

The process is straightforword:
- Degrease/wipe down the steel
- Use a brush to apply the solution. When I'm doing a gun I am trying for consistent coverage. For the knife I did an initial overall thin coat, then I used the brush to create a random pattern.
- The solution will cause the metal to rust within a matter of minutes
- Boil the treated metal in water for a a minute or two. This will stop the chemical reaction and cause the rust to blacken into a protective coat.
- Repeat the process as needed.

With a gun the goal is to repeat the process, building up layers until the solution no longer causes rust. With the knife it's a matter of your creative application. I used the brush to randomly dab/brush/splatter the solution, and used 0000 steel wool to remove the bluing in random areas between coats.

This thread has good pics of the process as used on a rifle:
http://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/threads/178327-Marauder-Style-Conversion/page5?highlight=marauder


The rest of it really depends on your artistic skill to achieve the look you want. I used steel wool to scuff and remove the
 
I've done it with fruit and vegetables (strawberries did a great job on a little Esee Izula that I stripped first). I've also used gun blue and vinegar. The fastest and probably best I've used is a 50-50 mix of ferric chloride and 5% white vinegar. The Ferric chloride can be bought at Radio Shack as circuit board etchant. This combo will also etch stainless (turns it grey).

I use windex to stop the etchant. I clean it with windex and soak in hot water with blue dawn. As was stated above, cleaning the blade thoroughly (before and after) is important. I use blue dawn and hot water as well as alcohol or nail polish remover. Hope this helps.
 
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