Plumber Information needed regarding municipal water pressure

[magnum1b]

I am in the process of installing an expansion tank in my water line. The question I have ie that my "static" water pressure reads 100 psi and everything I have read including the specs on the expansion tank say that is higher than normal. What I have researched is that normal residential water pressure shout max out at no more than 80 psi. I am going to check at the neighbors and see what they have to compare. Could my pressure regulator be bad where my main line comes into the house? As far as I know it's almost 30 years old. Additionally the county (Henry) recently changed all water meters to newer models with backflow prevention. I talked to someone at the Water Authority and he told me they do not regulate at the meter. I question that answer also. Meanwhile my water heater is bypassing hot water overboard via the "blowoff" valve. HELP!

Thanks,
Jack aka Magnum1b

 

[freedom]

You have a PRV, I think pressure reducing valve, somewhere near the main water cutoff inside the house. Mine is near the hot water heater. Yours may be bad but they are adjustable, and the adjustment screw should be where you can get to it. I think 40-70 is considered normal.

*not a plumber, but replaced mine*

 

[cskiles]

I am not a plumber by trade but it is my understanding that although the public water supply is regulated, it is up to the home owner to regulate the pressure coming into his/her own home. I know that I have a pressure regulator on my incoming water line that keeps my water pressure in the house at about 75PSI. Just a guess but It sounds like your regulator (if you have one, I know some older homes do not have one at all) may be bad and in need of replacement.

 

[Just1more]

Most houses built today have an in-line pressure reducer somewhere on the homeowners side of the meter.

 

[Woof]

Pressure regulator is commonly just inside the house where he water line comes in. They are adjustable, but they also will fail. In my last house, it failed after about three years (new construction). Our line pressure was ridiculously high (160 psi), so I put a commercial grade regulator in line with a new standard regulator. First stepped it down to about 90, second to 45. If you can sweat copper, it's easy to replace.

 

[tlt092187]

your prv is bad

 

[MRM]

Same boat.
I just installed one just past my cut off valve. It didn't have one at all and the showers were nice. Was 110psi.
They are serviceable and it could just need maintenance.
I replaced my water valve on my washing machine before I figured it out and still had to fix a couple faucet drips afterwards.

 

[Grdbreaker]

your prv is bad

THIS,Should be a thread in and out fix.Unless some dope hid it behind some sheetrock.

 

[SchmittZoid]

All of the above.

Replaced mine twice in sixteen years. Easy to do if you can sweat copper piping, as mentioned above. I put unions before and after during the first replacement which made the second one a snap. Incoming pressure in our section of da hood is about 140 to 150. That is normal for municipal lines. Your pressure needs to be reduced for residential grade fixtures working limits.

 

[magnum1b]

The "dope" (me) framed in a half bath in that corner of the basement and said PRV is above the ceiling. I tried running the adjustment to both ends and can adjust the "running" pressure but as soon as I turn the tap off the pressure returns to 100 psi. The regulator has connectors on both end but I am going to cut an access panel in that ceiling to ease access in the future as the main shutoff, PRV, and an outside faucet shutoff are all located up there and it's a pain to get to them. I routinely shut off the faucets in the colder months.


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