• If you are having trouble changng your password please click here for help.

researching scopes

Eshrote

Eshrote

Default rank <750 posts
Frontiersman
25   0
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
656
Reaction score
35
Location
Milton, GA
Ok, I am now the owner of a new Savage 11/111 Long Range Hunter in .308. Next quest, learning about scopes. Man, I had completely forgot how to do range estimation with mil dots. Had to take a refresher. Makes me thankful in hindsight I never had to call in support fire back in the day. Anyways, I have a few questions:

1) wanting to zero at 100 yards but reach out to somewhere between Army / Marine .308 effective range..800 yds to the highly motivated Marines 1000 yds; what would your reccomendation for a scope as well as your opinion on needing a 15 or 20 MOA rail.

2) and..if I'm using a mil reticle, so I can range, what's your opininion on a MIL to MOA and MIL to MIL scope..as in what would you get?

3) and you know what would be a great app? a size library of typical things ..ie, a fence post, person's width, traffic signs, pretty much anything that we may see to help range. a windage cheat sheet would be cool too..basically a cliff's note to sniper school on windage.. now I'm babbling.. but thanks for looking.
 
ive been taught 1x per 100 yds. so you need atleast 10x to reach 1k.

get a 20 moa rail. probably wont need it if you get a decent scope but it will help with the 308.

why on earth people want to mix MIL and MOA baffles me. get matching reticle/turret. MOA/MOA, MIL/MIL. no need to complicate things trying to convert mils to moa.

my last tidbit is buy GLASS/build quality over Magnification. spend quality money once. if you have the space to shoot 1k then you will be using your turrets a lot and your glass needs to be able to see distance. my minimum recommendation is the Vortex Viper or SWFA SS line. i run my SSHD 5-20 to 800 all the time, never lets me down. my friend runs a Viper PST and it is a great scope for the money. also, dont be afraid to go with a fixed power scope and if you want to do ranging with your scope, consider FFP reticles. makes life a lot easier when you dont have to find that one mag setting or do some conversions.
 
Eshrote said:
Ok, I am now the owner of a new Savage 11/111 Long Range Hunter in .308. Next quest, learning about scopes. Man, I had completely forgot how to do range estimation with mil dots. Had to take a refresher. Makes me thankful in hindsight I never had to call in support fire back in the day. Anyways, I have a few questions:

1) wanting to zero at 100 yards but reach out to somewhere between Army / Marine .308 effective range..800 yds to the highly motivated Marines 1000 yds; what would your reccomendation for a scope as well as your opinion on needing a 15 or 20 MOA rail.

2) and..if I'm using a mil reticle, so I can range, what's your opininion on a MIL to MOA and MIL to MIL scope..as in what would you get?

3) and you know what would be a great app? a size library of typical things ..ie, a fence post, person's width, traffic signs, pretty much anything that we may see to help range. a windage cheat sheet would be cool too..basically a cliff's note to sniper school on windage.. now I'm babbling.. but thanks for looking.
Click to expand...
This vid may help answer some additional questions about scopes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEE59GKnk2k
 
I've shot 1MOA groups at 500 on 2.5X. 10X is plenty for out to 1K, but there are a ton of scopes in the 14-22X these days. On the 15-20MOA cant mount- if you plan to shoot in the 600+ range often, then the canted mount comes in handy. What I found shooting to 1,000 is that while my old IOR 2.5-10 had enough vertical adjustment to reach out that far with a standard mount, I had no ability to adjust windage because the vertical was in the bottom of the scope tube. Think of it like this. Point your finger int he center of a cup. That's POA. Now move it to the bottom as if you adjusted elevation all the way up. Now move your finger laterally- there is nowhere to go before you hit the side of the cup.

so by having a 20MOA, instead of dropping 40MOA at 1K, you're dropping 20. however, this means you have to zero for 100+ as you're already 20MOA up due to the mount.
 
Kletz..that's the easiest to understand description of moa cant I've read on the internet. Since I'd like to use it to hunt in Georgia as well, I'd 3x to 9 or 10x seems to be the best compromise..odds are 99% of any longer range shots won't be passed 600, and hunting under 100.What do you guys think of the falcon menace?
 
Last edited:
I put a 20moa base on everything .... why? cause it usually doesnt hurt anything. I could still zero at 100 with my 308 with a 20 moa base, even though I had a 200 yard zero on it
 
I used a 20 moa base with a Burris XTR scope, I found the xtr to have the best glass,exit pupil, and quality for the $$. I had one of the SWFA scopes and was not impressed with it at all. Exit pupil is important at higher magnification for long range. I got the xtr so I could see the holes in the target @500 yds. Worked very well. Not a Nightforce but a damn good scope for the money, imo.
For practice in ranging you might enjoy this site. http://www.shooterready.com/lrsdemo.html
 
Last edited:
A night force would include alimony ..the burris xtr is Second plan? with MOA turrets and Mil reticle. Mil and second plane doesn't jive in my head
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Featured Listings!

Back
Top Bottom