Savage Triggers, Home-Smith & Basix Trigger

[flyingfrog509]

Well I picked up my project gun today. Didn't take me long to rip it apart and start cleaning it up because it seems impossible to buy a used gun that is actually clean. ***grin*** To my surprise it had a completely unadjusted basix trigger installed already pulling a bit over 5 pounds. So I played with that and put it in my 7mm-08 Stevens that I'm going to hunt with this week and did some home-smithing on the stock Steven's trigger I put in the newly aquired Savage 110 30-06 (square reciever)

Here were my findings...
Basix trigger (hope I'm spelling that right) - looks like the trigger geometry is about the same as the stock trigger with the addition of a few extra adjustment screws. Installed very easy into the Stevens 200. The adjustment took some time and the sear engaugement surface is very very small. With the set screw all the way out the trigger pulled over 5 pounds on both rifles. So I started turning it in 1/4 turn at a time. It seemed like nothing, nothing, nothing, then the pull dropped to under 3 pounds in 1/4 turn. In another 1/4 turn the sear would just slide right off when the bolt closed. So I spent about 20 minutes playing with it wanting to get it just above 2 pounds. (since it is advertised as 1-3 pounds) Got it there a few times but closing the bolt hard would allow the sear to slip (and would fire the gun if it had round chambered) I was also getting readings that would vary by up to 1/2 pound different. So I went up to 3 pounds and that seemed to solve the problem. I noticed that the sear is not in perfect contact with the trigger because it isn't 100% square. I'm going to try to fix this by shimming the trigger to remove the side to side slop. Either way right now it is reliable and crisp at about 2.5-2.75 pounds. Not bad, but not as good as I expected. Maybe this trigger had some previous abuse...not sure.

Stock trigger - Well I have nothing good to say about the Stevens 200 stock trigger. Out of the box it was off the scale, so over 6 pounds pull, what seemed to be a mile of creep and two "snags" before it would drop the firing pin. Well that just isn't going to work on any rifle in my safe. So I did a vast internet search and came to consensus on some home smithing. I started by taking the trigger apart 100% and cleaning it up. Sanded the sides with 600 grit sand paper (!!!not any of the sear or saftey contact surfaces!!!) and took some flitz to the trigger pin to polish it up. Put a little lube on the sides and on the pin and reassembled. That brought it down to just over 5 pounds. Nexted I put some marker on the sear to see what it was doing. Just like the other trigger it was only about 25% engauged. So I stoned the sear to match the trigger surface. That took care of the "snags" and brought it down to 5 pounds. Next I did polished the sear face and ramp. Mostly just smoothed it out. Last ditch attempt to bring it down I stoned the height of the sear face down by taking some surface off the ramp. (I STRONGLY SUGGEST NOT TO EVER DO THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW 100% WHAT YOUR DOING...and I'm not sure I do!!!) I did this in small increments (like 1 or 2 strokes at a time) then reassembling and testing...over and over and over probably 10-15 times. That ended up taking all of the creep out and brought the pull down to 4 pounds. I'm sure I could go further, but from what I've read really the next step is to get a .040 spring to replace the .050 spring to reduce the pull further while still having safe engaugement of the sear.

With all of that said I didn't mind that I had a very high chance of screwing up my rifle trigger or worse making it unsafe because I'm planning on buying a Timney or Sharp Shooter Supply trigger to replace the stock one before I actually shot the 30-06. SO AGAIN...I DON'T SUGGEST ANYONE ACTUALLY DO THIS. As I already stated the difference between a good trigger and a broken trigger was 1/4 turn on the adjustable Basix trigger. Stoning off matterial can't be adjusted and to be honest I'm not very impressed with the design of the non accu-trigger model mechinism. Way to touchy for average Joe adjustments outside of the spring adjustment that does practically nothing.

Hopefully next I'll be writting an update on shimming the basix trigger for side to side slop hoping it will give more consistant pulls AND a review on the SSS trigger.

 

[RamRoddoc]

Good information, I have a Savage 110 FP .223 Remington that I adjusted the stock trigger and it's much better and perhaps optimal for a tactical rifle but I'd like to take it down to 2 lbs. or even less.

Any suggestions or observations for trigger improvements are welcomed.

 

[flyingfrog509]

For anything less than 3 pounds I STRONGLY SUGGEST using an aftermarket trigger.

I just found a smith that installs accu-triggers on older Savages for those that prefer: http://www.savagegunsmithing.com/Savage_Trigger_Job.html
"If you have an earlier model rifle without the Accutrigger and would like one, we can install one for you."

Rifle Basix has two offerings and are simular to factory trigger but with adjustments:
SAV1 1-3 pounds - trigger only as spoken about above for $80-100
SAV2 4oz-3pounds - is the whole trigger assembly for $140-$160

Sharp Shooters Supply - Requires some fitting sometimes but has better leverage and looks less likely to slip off when cycling bolt hard.
Evolution Trigger - Really this is a bench rest only model for $195 or $300 installed
Competition Trigger - 12oz to 2 pounds, this is the one I'm trying next $97
Match Grade Rim Fire Trigger - 10oz to 3 pounds $87

Timney - another trigger only design 1.5 to 4 pounds $110

OR

Home Smith - Grind, File, Pray for the best...but you really need the lighter spring wire to get any real results on pull weight.



http://www.riflebasix.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1
http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/Triggers.html
http://timneytriggers.com
http://www.303british.com/id64.html - another guys info on Savage Triggers
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/735019/wolff-straight-spring-wire-blitzpack - Spring wire needed to lighten pull

 

[BHJ]

Man go to the hardware store and get some .045 music wire and replace the spring. Adjusting the tension on the spring with the set screw is not advised for a couple of reasons. The spring needs an arch to it to function properly and the set screw has grooves cut into it for the spring to ride in. If the spring is too flat it can be dangerous as well as causing the rifle not to cock the boltstop sear combo properly. Enough wire to make a whole sack full of springs cost about $2.99. Are you sure it's a rifle basix? Sounds like a Factory Savage 3 screw to me. Thes 3 screw is a very good trigger when properly adjusted. I'll send you a tip on the #tevens factory (lawyer) trigger later when I have. Time. And fffor goodness sakes put some blue loctite on that sear screw before recoil adjusts it to unsafe. Improper sear adjustment can cause the rifle to fire when the safety is taken off. The safety and overtravel need to be adjusted as well for proper function. I'll send you a great link on the proper way to do it when I have time and am not typing on my phone.
Good luck and keep em pointed in a safe direction.

 

[flyingfrog509]

I think I read about 10 articles on adjusting the triggers on savages before playing with it. The above is by no means meant to be an instructional on adjusting the trigger, just an overview of what I did.

I didn't know that music wire could be used...so that is an awesome tip.

I have no way of knowing 100%, but the trigger looks exactly like the Basix pictured above...however I'm assuming that is what it is. And for the record blue locktite adorns all of the set screws. Kind of thought that goes with out saying since such small adjustments in the sear screw go from great to slide right off the top.

I'd love to read another article or tips on savage trigger adjustment. I think there is room for improvement and yet be safe. I tested it like crazy before going to sight in today and I'm happy to tell everyone that there were no misfires or mishaps.

Thanks.