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What is the Best 308 resizing die?

Here is part of what's frustrating me. First picture is of a loaded round sticking out of the case gauge. This round will not chamber in either 700. Second picture is a loaded round that will chamber in both 700s. They are sticking out of the case gauge the same amount. Specs for the round are LC brass, CCI large rifle primer, 44.0 grains of Varget and Hornady 168 grain Amax.View attachment 7776514View attachment 7776515
This looks like a shoulder bump issue.
 
In answer to the actual question: I like Dillon, Redding, RCBS, and Lee.

I do not like Hornady resize Dies. They work but I do not like the zip spindle, the neck expander, or the propensity for stuck cases.
 
I had a similar problem (not as dramatic) and went through several dies. I tried, rcbs, forster, redding, I landed on an rcbs x-die. The small base dies were tough on the brass and definitley had some stuck cases even with impreial sizing die wax. If you do go the Small base route, (probably best) I would suggest running them through a standard base die beforehand.
In my experience, the headspacing on an AR-10 was a mile longer than the bolt actions. There will be a difference on the fire-formed brass.

I agree with 1006: try without any crimp.
 
The problem rounds will not chamber in the AR10 either. The resizing die is set in the press per the instructions. They say to raise the ram, screw in the die untill it touches the shell holder, lower the ram and turn the die in an additional 1/3 to 1/4 turn.
If you measure the inside depth of the case, you get 1.806 inches. If you transfer that measurement to the outside of the case, and then measure the difference to where the die reaches the base of the case, there is a 0.110 difference. Meaning the last 0.100 of the case is not being resized.
 
Shell plate differences do matter. The thickness of the top portion (+/-.001) of the shell plate determines the distance the die can travel down the case.

The distance to the shoulder will vary with mixed and matched shell plates from different manufacturers.

You’re right. Didn’t think about thst
 
The problem rounds will not chamber in the AR10 either. The resizing die is set in the press per the instructions. They say to raise the ram, screw in the die untill it touches the shell holder, lower the ram and turn the die in an additional 1/3 to 1/4 turn.
If you measure the inside depth of the case, you get 1.806 inches. If you transfer that measurement to the outside of the case, and then measure the difference to where the die reaches the base of the case, there is a 0.110 difference. Meaning the last 0.100 of the case is not being resized.
I'm going with shellholder.
 
I think it's clear that for some brass, that you're not full-length sizing right to the base of the brass, and this could be either:

1. An 'adjustment' issue that requires your die should set a bit lower with more resistance when the ram 'bottoms out'
2. A shell holder with a thickness that stops you getting to the last fraction of an inch of brass

The solution could be

1. a new shellholder (but I'd call Lee's tech team first)
2. A small base die with a matching manufacturer's shell holder, which will ensure you're well within SAAMI for brass size and give you greatest compatibility with all your chambers, although this will (a) impact your ability to reload REALLY precise ammo and (b) will 'work' that brass more.
3. Since the 308 Lee die is steel and not carbide, it's a bit more durable than carbide, and you might want to consider setting the press up with a bit of cam-over.

One last thought - if you're using range pickup brass, even if it's in perfect condition, and you size and prep that brass really well, (and you sort by headstamp) - there's a practical limit on just how consistent the rounds you build will be. This is why the serious benchrest guys buy new brass from Norma, Hornady etc. and track the number of times they've been fired, (and in the case of one guy I know, by batch).
 
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