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Where's the OBD reader gurus...
- Thread starter joel2000
- Start date
Yep ..two converters. 197000 mi o2's never changed as far as I know. bought the truck with 97000.
Good info..I think I'll replace the upstream o2 sensor and retest. I'll smoke it just to be sure no vacuum leaks too.
Thanks all!
See if the upstream o2’s are the same part numbers and if so swap them side to side to see if the code follows.
IMHO the graph appears the upstream are happy and that the downstream bank 1 is reading rich too often. Vacuum leaks etc would cause issues with both banks in my experience, also usually accompanied by a drivability issue. Another thing is upstream o2’s are used for fuel metering which would suggest if one was not working properly it would cause drivability.
Another method I’ve used on my own junk would be to buy an o2 sensor spacer off amazon and install into the bank 1 sensor 2 sensor and if that corrects your fault it’s the cat. These spacers pull the sensor out of the exhaust tract and fool the sensor into thinking the cat is working. People use them on cars that have had cats removed.
IMHO the graph appears the upstream are happy and that the downstream bank 1 is reading rich too often. Vacuum leaks etc would cause issues with both banks in my experience, also usually accompanied by a drivability issue. Another thing is upstream o2’s are used for fuel metering which would suggest if one was not working properly it would cause drivability.
Another method I’ve used on my own junk would be to buy an o2 sensor spacer off amazon and install into the bank 1 sensor 2 sensor and if that corrects your fault it’s the cat. These spacers pull the sensor out of the exhaust tract and fool the sensor into thinking the cat is working. People use them on cars that have had cats removed.
No drivability issues at all. smooth as silk at idle. No stumbling etc.. Code was cleared and hasn't returned yet... but, only put on just a few miles since cleared.
Again...great info and ideas. Sensor is not that expensive so i'll just change it first to see.
appreciate all the info
Wow 197, 000 you got your money's worth. Mine failed at a little over 100,000 . It wouldn't hurt to replace all of them . NTK is a good brand to go with. If they are the original they might be hard to get out. Spray some penetrating oil 3 or 4 hrs before you start replacing them.
Dont get lost graphing a P0420 is 100% a bad cat. Its one of the few codes that actually tell you what the problem is. A cat only has to be something like 8% inefficient to set that code. Now you might have a problem that is causing that cat to go bad you will need to find or its just ran its life cycle. Replace it with an OE one
Also we would need to see long and short term fuel trims for both banks to actually tell if there is an issue fuel trim wise. And when you reading that you need to be aware of the purge valve% just fyi
Cleared code and it hasn’t returned yet..about 4 drive cycles and couple hundred miles. Long and short term fuel trims showed to be within spec. That just tells me the cats are end of life and gonna need replacing. So, ordered replacements from Ford. Not cheap but I’m a stickler for OEM.
Thanks for chiming in. All good info.
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