What did you use to cover the green when you sprayed the khaki? Tape?
I just saw this thread and I'm currently spraying an AR for hunting. I'm mostly using string as the stencil.
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rattle can paint job
- Thread starter pistolpat
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What did you use to cover the green when you sprayed the khaki? Tape?
I just saw this thread and I'm currently spraying an AR for hunting. I'm mostly using string as the stencil.
Is that just sprayed on or did you also use sponges to get that effect?
That is the sponge technique. I found a really great thread on the snipers hide forum (which I can't find anymore) that gave me those results.
I have since written a detailed walkthrough on how to do this style of rattle can job. It is super easy, but like it has been previously mentioned, the outcome of the paint job is directly related to your prep work. The paint job on that AK took almost a week.
I have this one from arf.com bookmarked but haven't tried it yet. http://www.ar15.com/mobile/topic.html?b=6&f=19&t=321800
First you'll need some supplies. I got everything I needed at Wal-mart except for one thing (the sponges). You'll need Acetone or Mineral spirits (depending on what the finish is currently and whether or not you want it removed), some 400 - 600 grit sandpaper, Rustoleum Flat Camo spray paint, paper plates, and natural sponges (found in the art supply section). There are three colors of the spray paint that are all earth tones. I also suggest picking up a flat white and a flat black. You'll also need masking tape / painters tape, cotton balls, and a coat hanger (to hang what you are painting). An optional item would be tack cloth (found in the paint section).
Phase One
This is where your creative side will have to come into play. It is hard to visualize at first but as you start applying the paint you'll see what your end result will be. When you apply these next coats you will need to think light colors to dark colors. You want to gradually introduce the dark colors. This gives it that awesome blended look.
Once you have the pattern that you want just make sure you let it cure for a few days before handling it. Once it has it should last a really long time and handle anything you throw at it. After reading this you should be able to look back at the pics of the AK and see the pattern now.
Phase One
- The first thing you want to do is strip whatever you are painting. If you don't remove the finish and rough it up a bit the paint won't adhere properly and will peel or flake. This is where you need to sand everything that is going to be painted at least enough to rough the surface.
- Prep each peace by cleaning it with either the mineral spirits or the acetone. You can also use the tack cloth to clean off any spare bits of sanding residue.
- If you are painting a gun DO NOT paint it whole. Take the time to field strip it for the first few coats then reassemble once those coats have cured and apply the camo pattern.
- Tape off any areas that shouldn't be painted and use the cotton balls in the barrel or other areas that shouldn't be painted.
- Start with the light tan color paint and spray each piece lightly for the first coat (it won't cover all of the pieces). You shouldn't have a thick coat at all and it won't have paint on everything in every spot.
- Let that coat dry as recommended on the can before applying the second coat.
- Apply the second coat and also keep it light but try to cover the missed areas.
- Let this coat dry as recommended before applying the next coat (see the pattern?).
- Now apply the third coat and cover the entire item with even coats that are medium to thick coats.
- Let it dry.
- Finally, do one last light coat to make sure you didn't miss anything.
- If you painted a rifle and have it hung with a hanger, take the piece while still on the hanger and hang it up in a bathroom or in an out of the way place. It needs to sit for a full 24-48 hours and cure.
- Repeat for each piece.
This is where your creative side will have to come into play. It is hard to visualize at first but as you start applying the paint you'll see what your end result will be. When you apply these next coats you will need to think light colors to dark colors. You want to gradually introduce the dark colors. This gives it that awesome blended look.
- Clean the surfaces of your piece with tack cloth or mineral spirits (it didn't remove the paint on any of my rifles but test a small spot to be sure it won't remove anything) so there are no inclusions like dust.
- Get your next lightest color (green, white, tan), your sponge, and paper plate.
- Use the plate like a paint palette to mix colors. I used the tan and white to lighten the green. Just spray a section on the plate for a few seconds to build up enough paint then spray right next to that spot with the lighter color. I used a plastic spoon to mix the paint but use whatever you like.
- Mix until you like the color (try to keep it close to the previous color [I can't stress the gradual darkening enough]) then apply a small section (I kind of ripped my sponge so I had a corner to work with) with the color and lightly dab the piece. The goal here is to dab broad sections. I make sort of tiger stripes with the areas that I dabbed.
- Keep the dabbing light. You want it to keep it's digital look.
- Gradually mix paints to darker colors and continue the process. As you darken the colors shrink the overall area that you dab with them.
- Make sure that after each color you let it dry before applying the next color.
- Use the black sparingly because black isn't a naturally occurring color. Use it to darken the brown and green.
Once you have the pattern that you want just make sure you let it cure for a few days before handling it. Once it has it should last a really long time and handle anything you throw at it. After reading this you should be able to look back at the pics of the AK and see the pattern now.
A friend of mine gave my 15 year old son a Hi-Point 9mm carbine. After a fun day at the range today, we decided to do a different kind of camo on it. Primer, then base coat of gloss yellow, orange, and red. My son accidentally grabbed flat black primer instead of matte black paint for the top coat, but it turned out even better than I had planned. The black primer cracked and allowed more of the base coat to show thru than just the fish nets would have. It turned out pretty cool. The carbine ran 100% reliably and was pretty accurate.
In progress pics:
Final product:
In progress pics:
Final product:
