Ruger Mark II, Blue

[RamRoddoc]

This is a water damaged Mark II Target with most of the bluing gone. There are some pits that will need a touch of the file, then sanded out but otherwise it's in real good shape.

A bit of blue left at the frame juncture.

Some file, 230 grit and 320 grit emery cloth work.

An honest 50% bluing left?

Some before, then later some after....

A bit of blue left it appears.

Hand sanding is a bit of work and I decided to make a muzzle protector and spin the barrel on the lathe.

 

[RamRoddoc]

More lathe work.

Nice and snug fit and reusable.

The plug is done.

File work and then 230-320 grit emery cloth sanding turning on the lathe.

Block sanding the frame 230-320 grit emery cloth and some 400 grit paper to touch it up.

A plan coming together?

Old bluing salts, time to see if they have any life left in them....

 

[Beerman]

RR, looks great so far. So when will it be done..

 

[RamRoddoc]

Black iron wired up, correct height adjusted to keep the steel of the bottom of the pan.

Kitchen top hot bluing! Keep the vent fan on high!

Work area clear and ready!

Get them salts a boiling. 253 F is a bit low and never seems to work for me. 270 F is good, 280-290 seems to get-r-done right quickly in 15-30 minutes.

The steel stirring rod typically turns dark black but not today, appears we may have an issue Houston.

Well my salts gave up the ghost. After nearly an hour only the bolt blued and the trigger guard. Some small parts took a bit of blue too. Well appears I need to order some more fertilizer and Lye.

 

[RamRoddoc]

RR, looks great so far. So when will it be done..

This weekend and it should be a wrap.

 

[Beerman]

Very nice work. Send me a text when ya get it done.

 

[loadnplenty]

Looks like a fun project. Your brave doing that on your stove lol

 

[RamRoddoc]

Looks like a fun project. Your brave doing that on your stove lol

It's sort of addicting.

Once a person wipes the soot and rust off and beholds the rich dark color underneath it becomes clear what they should do when an old gun with a poor finish or better no finish must do. I would not destroy a collector's piece but an antique with no finish that would actually gain value on a right proper well executed hot blue, I would not think twice and encourage others to do so as well.

Not really brave, just an honest bit of risk assessment. The stuff is in many homes already. Drain cleaner (lye) and fertilizer (yard/garden) are common products. The risk is mainly a caustic one that can cause a chemical burn. There is a vapor hazard as well. Protect yourself and be alert to risk and all will go well.

When mixing the lye in the water wear glasses/goggles/splash hood. Mix under a vented hood and at arms length. My kitchen stove has this. Do the same when heating and mixing the fertilizer. Wear eye protection, rubber gloves, long sleeves/pants and leather shoes and enough ventilation to clear the fumes. The stove top fan on high works well for me. I keep a neutralizer (vinegar) on hand and ready. Water needs to be present for flushing eyes too.

Take care with materials that come in contact with the salts. Plastic, rubber, steel and untreated wood are fine. Glass or enamel are ok but dissolves slowly. NO Aluminum! do not use an aluminum pot, tools or foil. The gas it creates is explosive with an open flame or spark.

Be wise that the hot salts retain heat a long time. A damp barrel that has been rinsed and placed into the 270+ degree mix will vent out the high side and spew a hot mix of caustic spray wherever it's pointed. It will vent again when removed (at 270+ degrees) and dipped into the hot clean water bath to rinse the salts off. The same can may occur in other holes-firing pin etc.

If you can reload ammo and not blow your hand off or lose an eye then you can hot blue on a vented stove.

It's far easier to learn.

 

[RamRoddoc]

Finally made some progress to finish this project.

The parts removed from the hot salts, were rinsed in hot water, sprayed with WD 40 and placed in an oil bath for a day or two. Then hung to drip the excess off, wiped down and a light coat of oil applied. I'll leave it alone for a week or two then off to the range. The time allows the blue to cure. A bloom will come (brownish cak) that will be wiped down or cotton q-tips used to get the tight spots.


The parts just need reassembled.....

The sight goes together fairly easy.

A small hole drilled near the hammer spring channel allows a rod (drill bit or punch) to block it from launching the ball bearing into the next county. Don't ask me how I came to this solution but it sure reduces the foul language.

A wood block drilled with a center rod allows two hands to push the spring down past the (created) pin hole and a pin inserted to block and lock the pin down.

The upper went together nearly without a hitch. I had difficulty getting the extractor spring and pin in behind the extractor and figured I swapped it out by mistake with a similar part that goes with the trigger group. That was until I tried to put the trigger group in and the pin was too long. Back to the bolt and pull the extractor pin/spring and swap them out. I figured it out. The firing pin retaining pin has to be out to allow the extractor pin rearward travel (the spring is seated on a rim) and the extractor pops right in with out the need for a big hammer.

Now on to the frame...... 4 hours later....... The swear jar is full... Does anyone realize it takes 4 hands to do this?

Finally got the hammer in.

Success!

 

[7pt62THOR]