If the concern is engine damage, drain the oil and look for the tell tale sign of glitter. If there’s metal in there, and you really like the car, go with a used motor. By far the easiest solution.
Best of luck
Also, sometimes a brand new tensioner can make noise. If you have a stethoscope, check the tensioner while running. Happened to me twice, not a third. Dorman, Asin and Cloyes make good ones.
Although, the tensioner won’t cause a low oil pressure light.
Make sure the oil pressure switch is actually plugged in. I’ve had to unplug and remove some of those to get the bottom tensioner bolt out. Not out of the question it was overlooked.
Yep, I’ve run into a few of these. Also to include the dreaded P0172, rich B1. The 1.5 has had known issues with the injectors. With the direct injection and extremely high fuel pressure for delivery, they still haven’t gotten a handle on it yet. Injector replacement has been the solution, but...
It has always been less expensive to repair than replace. $3000 for a transmission (at the high end), compared to a new car payment, in 6 months you broke even. The 2000-2006 gm trucks have been some of the best I’ve seen. I’d replace the transmission and enjoy the lack of car payments.
Does your scanner have the ability to read data? If so, check the short and long term fuel trim. You want to see it in the +or - single digits. If it isn’t, it’s running rich/lean with the computer trying to compensate.
Anything above 85 or below 40 will wreak havoc on batteries, alternators and even water pumps. Having one explode like that is very uncommon. Definitely an internal short caused it. I’m actually surprised a Dekra battery lasted that long, I stopped selling those 25+ years ago. Today, if you get...
I’d definitely would get a couple of estimates. If they’re replacing the chains, guides, tensioners and the phasers, it’s gonna be expensive. Not sure about 5K expensive, but get prices from credible resources who have experience with these.
Crown Vic and grand marquis have press in lower ball joints. The uppers are bolt in. Unless you get the complete control arm.
Gunanddoglover is correct on the dust shield rivets. I normally remove the whole knuckle when I service those. So, no need to remove the dust shield.
Like lostchild posted, bring it back to the builder and have them check it out. Not questioning their ability, something may be at fault in the cluster. Bench testing the unit should reveal any issues.
Many euro cars IE BMW, Volvo, Mercedes have the electronic parking brakes. Starting to see them in Asian and a handful of US builds now. Usually faster to put the brakes in “service mode” with a scanner. But great job finding a way for the average person to do it at home. 👍🏼
Great write up. I’ve lost count of how many of those 4.3 and 5.7 intakes I’ve done. Those damn plastic/silicone gaskets just never lasted as long as we hoped. That was a great idea changing from the spider to the MPFI. Those poppets were often unreliable/unpredictable.
Great job! 👍🏼
Before we go putting the cart before the horse… if you can, put a fuel pressure gauge on it, should be at least 55-60 psi. If not, check for power at the module output to the pump, should be 12v or around there. If you have both, then it’s a bad pump assy. If it’s the fuel control module, it...
You could, just be careful of the pin out.
Engineers do this to piss us off and make us money at the same time because of failure.
They had the ABS module under there as well. Only lasted 2-3 years in the salt belt.