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1851 Colt 45 ACP Frankingun II
- Thread starter Sharps40
- Start date
20 rounds was all it took for the heavy spring and I'll fitting hammer nose to start to batter the firing pin. That cut in the nose of the hammer does a lot of damage over time.
I stoned away most of the old percussion hammer nose, keeping an angle that meets the firing pin fully and just about removes that notch in the underside of the hammer. With a lighter mainspring and a fit that has the hammer striking the frame the pin should last forever.
I stoned away most of the old percussion hammer nose, keeping an angle that meets the firing pin fully and just about removes that notch in the underside of the hammer. With a lighter mainspring and a fit that has the hammer striking the frame the pin should last forever.
Stoned the nose back so the loop of the hammer contacts the frame while the nose hits the firing pin. If compared to an unstoned hammer, you'd see a lot more hammer sticking out in front of the recoil shield of the frame.
All in, less battering of the firing pin, no battering of the firing pin ring, little energy expended smashing the face of the cylinder into the breech of the barrel. Should be a win for longevity and reliability.
The firing pin is free to move forward into the primer a full .053". When the fitted hammer rests on the firing pin, the protrusion is .040" and inertial movement can be as much as an additional .013".
All in, less battering of the firing pin, no battering of the firing pin ring, little energy expended smashing the face of the cylinder into the breech of the barrel. Should be a win for longevity and reliability.
The firing pin is free to move forward into the primer a full .053". When the fitted hammer rests on the firing pin, the protrusion is .040" and inertial movement can be as much as an additional .013".
The pietta grips feel great, checkered black plastic. Looks are fine but one panel is considerably smaller than the other where grip meets frame and back strap. Without a ton of torque, they move. So, drilled and a locating pin installed.
Until I can get back to the shop, to either plastic weld or glass bed the gap, there is a marvelous (kind of) product to fill in the gaps on the right side. 3M ultra bond foam tape. The only thing it will reliably bond to is the red pull off strip and itself. Won't stick well on plastic, wood, metal, dry wall, fingers, toes, cuts, tools, scissors, car trim....you get the idea. A couple strips folded on themselves and trimmed flush do fine as a temp filler. It makes the grip section of the gun a 10 footer......looks great from at least 10 feet away.
Until I can get back to the shop, to either plastic weld or glass bed the gap, there is a marvelous (kind of) product to fill in the gaps on the right side. 3M ultra bond foam tape. The only thing it will reliably bond to is the red pull off strip and itself. Won't stick well on plastic, wood, metal, dry wall, fingers, toes, cuts, tools, scissors, car trim....you get the idea. A couple strips folded on themselves and trimmed flush do fine as a temp filler. It makes the grip section of the gun a 10 footer......looks great from at least 10 feet away.
And finally, the best features of several projects will be applied to this....45 colt, since y'all probably argue "it's traditional!"
And yes, I will ditch the brass on this one. Black and silver for the win.
And yes, I will ditch the brass on this one. Black and silver for the win.
