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1851 Colt 45 ACP Frankingun II
- Thread starter Sharps40
- Start date
Gap filling. I'll photo the steps when I finish the top of the right side panel. But, it goes somewhat as...
1. Lightly sand the plastic surface to be gap filled with JB Plastic Bonder/Gap Filler, in this case, black.
2. Clean the sanded surface with alcohol wipe.
3. Coat the metal surfaces that may come in contact with epoxy with a release agent, in this case, RIG.
4. Wrap the grip in blue painters tape leaving an edge slightly taller than the gap to fill all around so there is a dam to hold in the goo.
5. Mix the epoxy and slather it into the dam formed around the surface to gap fill, level off the goo, set aside, upright so the goo dosn't run out.
6. Monitor the left over goo, when it can be cut with a greased razor and dosn't tear or cheese string (5 to 15 minutes), carefully remove the blue tape.
7. Install the grip panels over the locating stud and up against the greased metal components so the stiff putty like goo is squeezed out the front. Wait 5 or so minutes more, when your left over goo on the mixing pad can be cut cleanly with a greased razor, trim the excess goo off the outside of the grip following the frame and guard profiles.
8. Let the goo set fully.
9. Disassemble and repeat for additional areas needing gap fill.
10. Disassemble and do any final trim/polish/blending.
Done well, the razor trimmed goo presents a profile that closely matches the grainy surface texture of the Pietta factory plastic grip and little or no final trim/polish/blending will be needed.
1. Lightly sand the plastic surface to be gap filled with JB Plastic Bonder/Gap Filler, in this case, black.
2. Clean the sanded surface with alcohol wipe.
3. Coat the metal surfaces that may come in contact with epoxy with a release agent, in this case, RIG.
4. Wrap the grip in blue painters tape leaving an edge slightly taller than the gap to fill all around so there is a dam to hold in the goo.
5. Mix the epoxy and slather it into the dam formed around the surface to gap fill, level off the goo, set aside, upright so the goo dosn't run out.
6. Monitor the left over goo, when it can be cut with a greased razor and dosn't tear or cheese string (5 to 15 minutes), carefully remove the blue tape.
7. Install the grip panels over the locating stud and up against the greased metal components so the stiff putty like goo is squeezed out the front. Wait 5 or so minutes more, when your left over goo on the mixing pad can be cut cleanly with a greased razor, trim the excess goo off the outside of the grip following the frame and guard profiles.
8. Let the goo set fully.
9. Disassemble and repeat for additional areas needing gap fill.
10. Disassemble and do any final trim/polish/blending.
Done well, the razor trimmed goo presents a profile that closely matches the grainy surface texture of the Pietta factory plastic grip and little or no final trim/polish/blending will be needed.
I think except for an end shake ring (covered in the 1860 Frankingun thread) this one is all in.
The 19 lb mainspring on the short nose hammer gives those hard cci primers a reliable wack. 230g plated fmj hit 2 in above the front sight at 15 yds and the bead picks up quickly.
And, it looks fine riding in its $35 eBay holster.
Thanks for following another successful hack and smash.
The 19 lb mainspring on the short nose hammer gives those hard cci primers a reliable wack. 230g plated fmj hit 2 in above the front sight at 15 yds and the bead picks up quickly.
And, it looks fine riding in its $35 eBay holster.
Thanks for following another successful hack and smash.
