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.25 Cent Trigger Job?
- Thread starter oneill
- Start date
I have had several Glocks and currently own and IDPA with the 34. I have Flitzed them all and installed the 3.5# or Glock now calls it the 4.0# connector and it makes a difference. The internals also clean a bit easier.
After thousands of rounds I have yet to go full auto though and I am not seeing any issues.
I hope these comments are helpful!
After thousands of rounds I have yet to go full auto though and I am not seeing any issues.
I hope these comments are helpful!
I've tried this with a couple of my pistols and imo it mostly smoothes the action of the pistol. I've heard guys going full auto, never seen it but they may have ground parts rather than polish. Some of the aftermarket connectors come polished if you look close.
Very helpful!
I polished (no metal removed) the contact bearing surfaces of trigger system and installed a factory 6# (I think) trigger return spring, it's a pound or two heavier return spring and effectively reduces the pull weight. The LEO/blue label G34's come with a stock-standard connector, the civilian G34 model comes with the (-) minus connector. Glock will switch it out for you or if your gun dealer has a Glock Armorer he can request one from Glock and install it for you. You can install this yourself but Glock won't sell you one nor would they sell you the 6# trigger return spring.
The polish job should not make the gun go auto. Metal removal on the other has the potential to have bad ju ju effect. The polish job basically gets you a worn in trigger without firing thousands of rounds or dry firing thousands of times.
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A true simple polish job on the trigger bar and connector will not make a Glock go full auto. If you were to remove metal on the sear area of the cruciform, maybe. My 34 is highly polished, Ghost Rocket 3.5 connector with OT stop, heavier trigger spring, lighter striker spring, and a lighter firing pin safety spring. 2#s. Does very well.
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All you're doing is polishing the metal, doing so in no way would make the gun full auto. I did mine and there's a slight difference in the smoothness of the pull. It takes about an hour to do and it's super simple if you know how to break down the Glock. I used Flitz and Qtips on the 5 spots you need to polish, went over them about 5-7 times per location, super simple. Trigger felt nice. I then added the "-" trigger connector, the 6# trigger spring, striker and safety spring and everything feels great. I haven't had any misfires (double, "full auto", etc.) from the polishing or the upgrades. I say go for it.
Don't use a Dremmel with a coarse tip because you can damage the metal too easily.
This is the vid I used: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4BccY7wmIE
Don't use a Dremmel with a coarse tip because you can damage the metal too easily.
This is the vid I used: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4BccY7wmIE
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The Dremel or clones with the cotton buffing pad and some polishing compound does a great job. I would not use a stone wheel.
For the Glock to go full auto, the trigger would have to stick in the fire position. Other wise the firing pin/striker could not access the round/primer. The firing pin/striker safety has to be raised by pulling the trigger and, therefore, actuating the safety.
For the Glock to go full auto, the trigger would have to stick in the fire position. Other wise the firing pin/striker could not access the round/primer. The firing pin/striker safety has to be raised by pulling the trigger and, therefore, actuating the safety.
Same here... my 17 carries a true 3.5lb and competition springs... polished. Lots and lots of rounds, no problems. Same with my 34, etc. Never had any problems. BTW, Glock doesn't care one bit if you polish them although if you have any non-Glock parts, they might vanish if you bring it in for warranty work.
Oh, and I will nto dremel my Glock.. I hand polish the internal parts. Takes very little time with flitz and removes the least amount of metal. (but that's just me)
