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4-0 Steel Wool and What for Rusty Shotgun?

Mineral spirits or acetone won't cut it?
We gonna find out later today. We actually have a rig at work that looks just like an airless paint sprayer but it shoots acetone on shirts to get ink out. But I would probably use all our acetone getting that sticky **** off.
On a positive note once I sand this Minwax off it will probably have a darker tone from whatever has soaked into the wood. Years ago I sanded black spray paint off and SKS stock and it had almost like a laminate or tiger stripe type of pattern to the wood where the black paint had soaked into the grain in some spots. I'm thinking this MIGHT go something like that did.
 
Don't use steel wool, it scratches and leaves eneven finished result. Use 0000 brass wool instead. You can order it on Amazon.

I have restored many an old school bicycle and in the bike resto world everyone uses brass wool because the thinking is steel wool re-embeds the small fragments of low carbon steel in the newly created microscopic grooves and thus leaves this open to more rusting.
 
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I have an old Stevens pump with a pretty solid coat of leopard print looking rust all over it. Not looking for a perfectly clean end result as far as finish goes. I just want to clean it up as good as possible and put a stop to the rust. Looking for suggestions on what to use with good old steel wool to help in the process.
Just thought I would send you a picture of a Savage 67 I did a for a friend. You might want to try this on the bolt. There are a lot of videos out there about jeweling bolts. IMG_1381.JPG
 
Just thought I would send you a picture of a Savage 67 I did a for a friend. You might want to try this on the bolt. There are a lot of videos out there about jeweling bolts.View attachment 9174890
Looks professional. My bolt has a flat spot on the top though. I can only assume maybe because it's 20 gauge instead of 12 .
 
Looks professional. My bolt has a flat spot on the top though. I can only assume maybe because it's 20 gauge instead of 12 .
The one pictured is a 20 gauge also. This was for my race car partner. He wanted 20 gauge defensive shotgun. I found this one for sale cheap on here and cut it off for him and restored it. I only jeweled the part that showed after assembly.
 
The one pictured is a 20 gauge also. This was for my race car partner. He wanted 20 gauge defensive shotgun. I found this one for sale cheap on here and cut it off for him and restored it. I only jeweled the part that showed after assembly.
I'm looking forward to shooting this one. I have nine other shotguns including a Shockwave a JC Higgins bolt action an Ithaca side by side etc..but they're all 12 gauge. Shooting the Shockwave just straight up sucks.
I was thinking of maybe taking a narrow strip of leather and maybe brass tacks/screws and making it into a shell holder on the side of the stock. But I'll probably be better off finding a leather holder on eBay or Amazon.
 
Here is pretty much the finished project. Sanded off all the ****ty looking Minwax and went with some Rust-Oleum satin clear. Should have done that to begin with.
Got the barrel/receiver back from the welder on Friday. He tacked my SKS sling on the underside of the barrel and a small spot in an existing hole on top of the heat shield. So it's on there good now. Had to watch a couple of YouTube videos to get my trigger group back in the receiver. My slide release popped off and damned if I could figure it out on my own . This ain't nothing like a Mossberg or 870 on the inside.
Anyway it's all done now with a surplus M16 sling hanging from it . I think it looks good and kinda retro. And I dig that it's a 20 gauge. I DO still need to clean the inside with like brake parts cleaner or Hoppe's cleaner. But that's for another day.
 

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I REALLY need to disassemble this one again and clean not only the barrel and receiver but the trigger group. I mean there's lint and caked on carbon or whatever in there. But I have to say even being this dirty it cycles better than much newer shotguns I have.
 
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