Anti-seize?

Laxguy59

Laxguy59

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The Hen that laid the Golden Legos
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I find putting any liquid type makes it dirtier. It catches every bit of the burnt powder. I hadn't tried the anti seize. My Tirant gets stuck so bad I have to put it in a vise to get a good grip to get the booster off. Soviet had problems with his ISIS2 booster also. I believe he used anti seize, I could be wrong tho. Once I got my Tirant booster off, it was fine taking out the baffles, it just took a little longer and couple tappings and wooden dull to poke. With anti seize, I can see it trapping it all on the walls and making it very tight to get the baffles out.
 
No2sc2 said:
I find putting any liquid type makes it dirtier. It catches every bit of the burnt powder. I hadn't tried the anti seize. My Tirant gets stuck so bad I have to put it in a vise to get a good grip to get the booster off. Soviet had problems with his ISIS2 booster also. I believe he used anti seize, I could be wrong tho. Once I got my Tirant booster off, it was fine taking out the baffles, it just took a little longer and couple tappings and wooden dull to poke. With anti seize, I can see it trapping it all on the walls and making it very tight to get the baffles out.
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Well it may catch the powder, but if it can keep if from turning rock solid and freezing up the baffles its worth the extra cleaning. The oil on my cans internal threading doesn't get much carbon at all, but keeps everything slick for taking apart. I just don't want to end up with a can that gets damaged due to a a baffle seixing up. Luckily my Guardian is like the octane with encased baffles, but I still want to be careful.
 
BTL FED said:
What does the manufacturer recommend?
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I'll have to look what HTA recommends for the Guardian, but my curret cans are really easy since the Osprey only requires some white lithium grease on the piston and the Sparrow has clamshells to prevent the monocore from seizing on the tube. I wonder what Thompson Machine recommends since it was their can in that pic that seized up between the baffle and tube.
 
There's got to be more to that story than what he shows. I've shot 1000's upon 1000's of 22 through my m16 with my TM Zephyr on it, and at worst, it took a good whopping on some wood to get the core out. That looks like he put it in a vice and just torqued it while it was carboned in good. you can't try to rotate something when its got carbon blocking its rotation. (which is why I like how liberty puts a little knob on the core and tube to keep you from doing that.) You have to push and break up the crud out the end.

Also, popping it open while its still good and hot, instead of waiting til you get home and its cooled and condensated, is a good move. I always break everything open before they go back in the range bag.

Personally I put the copper stuff on my threads, and put the can back together wet with either motor oil or some gun oil.
 
you can use Maalox as anti seize, it dry's to a powder. you can search it on the web and come to your own conclusion.

on automobile/big trucks there are different types of anti seize to use on different application because of heat, copper anti seize works from -20- 1800° F silver up to 2200° F. I agree the typical could hold grit in a gun application plus it has graphite in it. I don't know if you would want the residue from the compounds going down the tube.

I don't have a suppressor just throwing out my 2¢ out there, may not be worth much
 
Problem with a serviceable can is the frequency that it needs to be serviced. I switched to graphite powder. Any grease or wet compound seems to make things worse like no2sc2 stated, just my experience.
 
drsmile said:
Problem with a serviceable can is the frequency that it needs to be serviced. I switched to graphite powder. Any grease or wet compound seems to make things worse like no2sc2 stated, just my experience.
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Actually it depends on the user. If a can is serviceable, its just a plus option for the can. I used to clean my TiRant like EVERY SHOOTING SESSION but it got to the point, I was annoyed so now I clean it every thousand or so rounds. I'm thinking keeping it a little dirty will seal up all the cracks in the can and have better performance at slowing the gasses. Thats my lazy excuse. I like my Osprey as LAX mentioned, all you need to do is clean the booster assembly which is what I do for all my suppressors now. Only clean the baffles every now and then when I have free time. I am curious to how a suppressor performs when its dirty and cleaned.
 
I will try some anti seize on the booster assembly on my TiRant and see how it works. I hate putting it in the vise. I've even tried not screwing on so hard but it still gets stuck.
 
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