Anti-seize?

There's got to be more to that story than what he shows. I've shot 1000's upon 1000's of 22 through my m16 with my TM Zephyr on it, and at worst, it took a good whopping on some wood to get the core out. That looks like he put it in a vice and just torqued it while it was carboned in good. you can't try to rotate something when its got carbon blocking its rotation. (which is why I like how liberty puts a little knob on the core and tube to keep you from doing that.) You have to push and break up the crud out the end.

Also, popping it open while its still good and hot, instead of waiting til you get home and its cooled and condensated, is a good move. I always break everything open before they go back in the range bag.

Personally I put the copper stuff on my threads, and put the can back together wet with either motor oil or some gun oil.

You use motor oil to wet your cans too?
I use synthetic motor oil.
Problem with a serviceable can is the frequency that it needs to be serviced. I switched to graphite powder. Any grease or wet compound seems to make things worse like no2sc2 stated, just my experience.
Where does one buy graphite powder?
 
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I got a jar at West Marine for about $12. I have seen it at Lowes and Brownells has it also I think. Stuff is slick and dry...
Great lube for cans, FA's, and AR's. Just put a little on threads and areas where metal to metal contacts. Cans come apart much easier(the carbon deposits seem not to stick to metal like with oil and anti sieze, then I just bead blast the core and threads with a $20 bead blaster (harbor freight) hooked up to my compressor. Doesn't burn off, smoke and smell like oil / grease either.
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...87_a_7c7313_a_7c083000013_d_083000012_d_10185
 
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