Case damage question

[b.a.customkydex]

Makes perfect sense, and I am only shooting brass that was fired in my guns or bought brand new but having said that, up until this point when I pull out a bag of brass I don't know which weapon the brass was shot in. I have an Encore barrel for every caliber bolt action rifle (excluding WSSM) and my boys have matching 700's in .243. I have learned a lot just reading about reloading so far, with obviously much more to learn. But from now on, I will know to keep fired brass together and labeled with the barrel it was fired in. I'm a computer engineer by trade, so best practices and logical thinking are part of my daily grind, which means that reloading is right up my ally. I'm just kicking myself for not getting into this 20 years ago.

Yeah, with multiple rifles in the same caliber I would suggest full length sizing and not to worry about keeping brass separate to each gun. What I would keep up with is how many times fired each piece is.

It's funny but I have seen it many times, a load shows no signs of pressure when fired with full length sized brass. Use a piece that has been neck sized only and the primer is now flattened....and you are scratching your head saying "but this was fine last time". What people don't think about is v when you full length size you are studying the case smaller than the chamber and the brass can expand to fill the chamber. Once it's been fired its already expanded to fit the chamber and where is pressure going to go.....either push the bullet out, or push the primer out, or both. Also not all chambers are exactly the same, and one round in one rifle might work where it won't chamber in another, even if they are sequential serial numbers.

But if you can keep everything segregated and separated then go ahead and neck size only.....but I don't have any lol.

 

[jcountry]

I have been using hornady one shot case lube on about 20 to 30 cases inside a ziploc bag. Just squirt a little in there and jumble them around. Works OK so far for me.

(Of course, the spray lube is very light-so that might be a factor.)

 

[Clarke123]

One of my favorites is 4 OZ of Liquid Lanolin dissolved in 1 quart of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol.
Mix thoroughly, place in a spray bottle. Spay your brass inside a gallon Zip-Lock Bag,
shake then pour out to dry ... then size away!

 

[Clarke123]

One of my favorites is 4 OZ of Liquid Lanolin dissolved in 1 quart of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol.
Mix thoroughly, place in a spray bottle. Spay your brass inside a gallon Zip-Lock Bag,
shake then pour out to dry ... then size away!

(appears to be an echo in here !?)

 

[denbow]

agree with all the above, to much lube.

 

[wnchstrtnfldvlle]

It's the build up in the die. Pull the die from the press and take off the lock ring.....see that hole in the side of the die? That's a vent hole, it's there for air to escape. If that gets plugged with lube there is no way for the air to escape. The case lube doesn't compress, that's how hydraulics work...something has to give, in this case the brass gives way because it's softer that the steel the die is made from.

mind...blown...!

 

[bowshooter1591]

Ok! beating a dead horse here. I have been reloading for over 20 years, It is lube issue.
1) On bottle neck cases you want to try not to get lube on the neck or shoulder.
2) This is a coming problem with liquid lube, even if you make you own I have tried them all.
The best hands down is Imperial Sizing Die wax.

 

[jglenn]

"The best hands down is Imperial Sizing Die wax"


agreed


all I use for the last 10-15 years