Cerakote, Duracoat, Kimpro, it's all junk ....

[Luke]

So what I wonder is ..... if you were to sandblast the gun and make it rough and then cerakote it would it be better ....

If the coating was applied properly, the gun was blasted to begin with. As a matter of fact, I'm betting most of your issues with the aftermarket coatings are due to applicator error. It is a process putting any of that stuff on, and the biggest part of it is metal preparation. Everything should be degreased and blasted, and at least with cerakote should be heated and allowed to cool PRIOR to the application of cerakote. As far as blasting goes, you don't want to do it enough to create pitting the coating has to fill as it is not designed for that. If the process is done properly, cerakote should be standing up to a lot of wear. The only other things I could think of with that is if the applicator is not using enough hardening substance in the mix, or if they are using the wrong grade of cerakote for their firearms refinishing, or if they are not curing at the right temps for the right amount of time...or some combination of all that! Hope this helps![/QUOTE]

+1

I've applied Duracoat to many guns including a 1911 that I passed down to my son a year ago. It was my carry gun for several years before passing it on him. It's been through countless hours of dry fire exercises, training, shooting and while it does show some wear the finish has held up well. The same is true for a 1911 that I gave to a friend of mine about five years ago. He told me the other day that it is about time to redo it as it has some rough places on it, but it has held up better than most factory finishes. Prep is everything, and proper cure time, etc, is right there with it.

On the flip side, I bought a 1911 from a GON member that had a fresh coat of Duracoat on it and it started flaking before I got home. Prep is everything and not everyone can or should do it.

Luke

 

[howwie]

So since kydex holsters are pretty much the norm then you would have to say that these finishes can't hold up under normal use right?

That's exactly what I mean. I'd never do another one unless I had no reason to holster it....It looks cool but if the gun is to be used a lot it just didn't hold up. (for me). Only the trigger guard was the issue, and the prep was thorough and correct. A buddy who powder coats for a living helped me prep and blast it. Mine was sprayed on, no heat involved

 

[bearpugh]

blue, parkerize, or alumahyde for me.

 

[FredAlert]

I think I will stick to parker or stainless steel. Blue still has it's share of rust problems but parker with a grease/heat application tends to last forever.

blue, parkerize, or alumahyde for me.

 

[2001SportTJ]

I have a G19 that I had cerakoted(just the slide) about a year ago. It has held up great, and I am not gentile with it.

 

[drewga11]

I have a LWRC that is cerakoted, but not a factory job. It has held up fine through 1600 rds so far. I haven't seen any wear, flaking, or chipping on mine so far. I don't intentionally abuse my weapons, but I don't baby them either.

IMO, if you have problems with cerakote, it most likely wasn't applied properly. But given enough time and use, pretty much anything will start to wear.

 

[01coltcolt]

When spraying any finish, if not followed factory directions for:
Bead blast
Stripped
Cleaned
dried
Tempature
mixtures
ect.
There will always be faults
Lots of folks buy Duracoat and spray it. If adhearance to Factory specifics are met. It doesnt scratch, crack, chip ect. Find a certified Duracoat trained person on thier website, and figure out that its not the product its the idiots using it.

 

[KORNBREAD]

I have never seen ANY applied finish that will not at some point start to wear, for that matter stainless scratches and shows signs of wear. The parkerized finish on my Les Bear AR has a spot were the dust cover flips down and makes contact, that the parker has worn off, so much for parker being indestructible. Unless you never touch it, your firearm will show signs of handling and wear. Get over it.

 

[FredAlert]

I'm not talking about signs of wear I'm talking about the first time you kydex holster a scorpion it looks like you scraped half the finish off the trigger guard or the first time something metal bumps it it leaves a big dig mark in the side of it the length of the contact. I understand that with honest work comes honest wear but one touch or contact shouldn't leave it looking like it went through a battle.

As for the way stainless wears ... if you buy high polished stainless sure it shows but a satin stainless gun stays looking new for a long time.

As for the parkerizing where the dust cover slaps on your ar .... that isn't parkerized .... it's anodized aluminum.

I have never seen ANY applied finish that will not at some point start to wear, for that matter stainless scratches and shows signs of wear. The parkerized finish on my Les Bear AR has a spot were the dust cover flips down and makes contact, that the parker has worn off, so much for parker being indestructible. Unless you never touch it, your firearm will show signs of handling and wear. Get over it.

 

[57fairlane]

Its already been gone through a bit, but from a manufacturer's perspective:

We sandblast (actually we have a goff blast machine) everything that gets painted first, then wiped down with acetone, then put in an oven at 90* to be preheated for 10-15 minutes, painted with a HVLP (we use gun kote, same stuff), then is cured in the oven at 325* for an hour.

Finish is very resistant to scratches, will take some time on a buffing wheel to get off, and doesn't burn off until ~500-600 degrees.