do not ream to .38 special, in short you will ruin the gun. sure years ago many did this so they could sell the military surplus guns for an extra 5 dollars.... I'm serious in the day no one wanted a .38 s&w..... they were stuck with guns that didn't sell for around 20 dollars but for ten minutes of labor they would sell for $25...... I used to buy them in the early 70's for $12.95 in near mint condition but had timing or lock problems fix them up and make a nice profit railway express agent guns..... the railroad dicks stood around never fired the guns but showed off by flipping the cylinder open and shut all day or night..... good way to kill a colt, the smiths held up a little better. need to check your measurements, a .38 special is a sloppy fit in a .38 s&w barrel to say the least... just short of being able to drop thru..... and no one mentioned the differences in cases..... check base and mouth measurements big differences...... when you fire a .38 special in a .38 s&w the cases will split about 9 times out of ten.
nothing at all wrong with the .38 s&w. none of the reloading manuals will show any hotter loads for the risk of them being used in the old break tops..... millions of them made and most unsafe to fire at all but a good closed frame colt or smith can be safely loaded to .38 special plus p levels. or you can go the way the brits did and use a 200 grain cup nosed wad cutter bullet..... real man stopper. very fine caliber gun.
nothing at all wrong with the .38 s&w. none of the reloading manuals will show any hotter loads for the risk of them being used in the old break tops..... millions of them made and most unsafe to fire at all but a good closed frame colt or smith can be safely loaded to .38 special plus p levels. or you can go the way the brits did and use a 200 grain cup nosed wad cutter bullet..... real man stopper. very fine caliber gun.